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So wulf and I have been working on a project, and honestly it's mostly thus far only been wulf. As I do not have anything in hand to "toy" with yet in software. Unofficially we're calling it the "proto-bone". What is it ?


It's a 30mmx30mm prototyping board, that is meant to interface with the Beaglesbones P8, and P9 headers. Also, it has a pass through for the serial debug pins. Additionally, there are pin holes for up to 70, 20 pin dips or 140, 8 pin dips or any combination of 8,14,16 and 20 pin dips.  With configurable power rails, ground rails, and a specific spot for a watchdog timer, real time clock, and a cape specific eeprom. A 5v to 3.3v regulator is provided if the circuitry consumes more power than the BBB can provide. Next to each socket area is additional space, and pin holes for additional circuitry, needed for IC's placed in related socket pins. All power and ground pins to proto sockets are 8mil and easy to cut if a connection to power or ground is not required on the specific pin. Each pin on the proto socket has 4 interconnected pads as well as the socket pin


We're figuring $50 per proto board, at least initially. Cost is expected to go down if there is call for large quantities in the future. Also, for what it's worth, there will be an equivalent for Raspberry PI's, and ODRIOD's latest board.


Anyway, I'd be interested to hear people thoughts on these boards . . . and we'll be going to PCB very soon.

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So here is part of the PCB footprint to give an idea of what I mean buy configurable power rails, and a huge area for prototyping including many, many possibilities for 8-20pin dip. To the far right of this image is the P9 header, and each pin on the header is labeled by P9-NN, were NN is the P9 pin number, and also has the pin name, such as SYS_RESET, etc. Which would make it much easier at a glance to tell what you're working with. Then down towards the bottom I believe is where the battery holder footprint( RTC battery ) is .


The board is meant to sit on top of the beaglebone, and with the correct standoffs, the board, and beaglebone should clear a flat surface which the standoffs are placed on. Which for those of you who like to place electronics on a wood "placard". This would work great for that purpose. Or even to sit on a flat work space area.



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