abecedarian 330 Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Lower TA0CCR0 value (32767 default,) 32761 or 32762 should work for you. You could also change XCAP, but adjusting CCR0 should work for you (since the clock is slow.) In all likelihood, it's the crystal running slower due to changes in temperature- when I assembled it, it was around 55F low / 80F high here, and now it's going from 40F to 70F. That might be something to look into, i.e. using the 430's temp sensor to introduce a temp-related offset to CCR0. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobG 1,892 Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 Post #43 was suppose to say: "For those who want to customize/contribute." Quote Link to post Share on other sites
zeke 693 Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 @RobG: FYI, the kit arrived safely. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pwillard 2 Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Just for the record... I love mine. RobG and cubeberg 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timotet 44 Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 I bought one of @@RobG's clock kits and I am very happy with the results. I have kids and didn't want to have any wandering fingers getting zapped, so I designed and printed an enclosure for it. Here are some photos of it. I couldn't resist adding the colon. I uploaded the .stl files if anyone wants to print it. Thanks to Rob for the awesome kit! RobG_Clock_Case.zip RobG, tripwire, roadrunner84 and 2 others 5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobG 1,892 Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 Dave's clock cubeberg, roadrunner84, Kman and 1 other 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobG 1,892 Posted May 2, 2015 Author Share Posted May 2, 2015 I want to do another version of the board, one that uses IN-8 tubes, but the question is, should the tubes face in or out. As a geek, my choice is in, so that I can see all components in front of the tubes. Tubes facing out would be better if you want to use enclosure. SMD version of the IN-8 based clock is also an option (1" shorter PCB.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cubeberg 540 Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 Is in the middle an option? I'd be worried about it tipping otherwise. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
zeke 693 Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 @@RobG, I just got around to assembling my Nixie clock this afternoon. There's one digit out. I know it's not the Nixie tube because I swapped them around and they all work. Got any troubleshooting tips? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
zeke 693 Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 @RobG, I found the problem. It was a board flaw. There is a track with a missing piece. I jumpered the track and the digit started working. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
abecedarian 330 Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 @@zeke - that is surprising. Mine worked out of the box. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greeeg 460 Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 @@zeke - that is surprising. Mine worked out of the box. Probably a case of an individual board flaw. Its a flaw of the cheap board houses. I've had about 2 boards out of 20 batches or so (~1%) that I can see they've done a ERC check by scratches on the pads, but there has been no visible mark, (sharpie) telling me it was defective. I actually have had boards that were sharpied, but after close inspection they work fine. I suppose more reputable PCB fabs have better testing equipment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
zeke 693 Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 If you look carefully, the board flaw is just to the left of center in the last photo I posted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobG 1,892 Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 Oh wow, good to know. Are you talking about that thin vertical line going through the track? Those are suppose to be 100% tested. BTW, why red? why not black wire? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
zeke 693 Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Yup. The thin vertical line is an absence of copper. I used red because I was just doing a quick fix. The plan is to scrap off the solder mask and solder down a bridge across the gap and then cover it with something. RobG 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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