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@@bluehash The horizontal bar is simply an indicator for volume level so no scrolling involved. The channel list is scrollable though, ether via the navigator button or via remote control.

 

I am using CCS since I need a decent debugger and also because I am familiar with the Eclipse IDE. I have a full CCS licence, the project compiles to over 70K of code - as I understand this is not possible when using the free licence?

 

What about a post that starts off with a description of event driven programming and how I have implemented it in my UI library? Maybe that can be helpful for those who are new to that concept.

 

A description sounds good.  :thumbsu:

 

License should not matter.

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@@timotet - nice result from isolation milling.   The first machine I made is a fairly standard CNC mill, ballscrews, linear rails & steppers, using Mach3 and Vectric Cut2D & VCarve in the t

Making my first PCB using KiCAD, switching over from ZenitPCB. Next I am going make a prototype board with a LQFP-64 (TM4C123), will push my homemade PCB "printer" to its limits (its inherent resoluti

Seems to sell like hotcakes, the UPS man just dropped a Baofeng UV-5R+ on my doorstep I hope to use it as a test signal  to fiddle with my AIS project. (Carrier signal only, I don't think it is able

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This weekend I put together my second quad. My earlier quad was a 500mm one. It is pretty powerful and big. I still haven't got good at flying the thing. Multiple crashes were hurting my pocket.

 

Recently more quad classes are becoming popular especially the 250mm class. These are smaller, durable and parts are cheaper too. They can also be put together quickly.

 

Total cost without the radio came to $186. I got the Emax 250 kit from MassiveRC.

 

WP_20150823_18_49_00_Pro.jpg

 

Test flight was successful!

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Finally turned a corner and got my basement workspace mostly in order-

post-15991-0-42690100-1440381785_thumb.jpg

 

Got all my books and crap *off* the workspace desk and up on those new shelves... a new lounge chair on the right (bookshelves & chair are cheap ikea stuff), now I need to tidy up the rest, get my reflow skillet organized and ready to roll and all I need now is to reacquaint myself with all my unfinished projects and MCUs!!

 

I have been mostly incognito to the electronics/MCU world for the better part of the year... mostly due to this, just too much crap to get done at home!

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Finally turned a corner and got my basement workspace mostly in order-

attachicon.gif20150823_215315.jpg

 

Got all my books and crap *off* the workspace desk and up on those new shelves... a new lounge chair on the right (bookshelves & chair are cheap ikea stuff), now I need to tidy up the rest, get my reflow skillet organized and ready to roll and all I need now is to reacquaint myself with all my unfinished projects and MCUs!!

 

I have been mostly incognito to the electronics/MCU world for the better part of the year... mostly due to this, just too much crap to get done at home!

Looks nice spirillis!

Is that skillet for cooking PCBs?

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@@bluehash - If I am interested in learning more about these, where is a good place to start?

RCGroups multirotor sub-forum.

Reddit's /r/multirotor

Also Oscar Liang's site.

I'd suggest going for a kit and put it together yourself( like th eone I linked above). I went big the first time around and regret it due to the number of crashes. You will learn slowly.

 

You need the following extra things:

  • Radio RX/TX - something like Turnigy. If you can afford them- Futaba or Taranis.
  • LiPo batteries.
  • LiPo charger.
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Needed a new board vise that would sit flat. The old linemaster is not quite the thing for some jobs, and is kinda a pain to crank, though it is real solid and heavy.

 

This was out of the scrap bin in about an hour. 1/2" square tube, 1/4" rod, a spring from the junk pile, and a thumbscrew. Mots time consuming part was tapping the holes. No tools more advanced than a handheld drill and a hand tap and hand die (for the end of the rod). There is a nut inside the tube to jam with the nut on the rod end. I was trying to figure how to mill a tapered grip on a chunk of ABS from the scrap bucket, then I said to myself: "self, it is only going to be a taper edge to just grip the top of the board and hold it down. Why not give more room by using flat head (countersink) screws". So I did.

 

Rubber baby buggy bumpers on the bottom for gription.

 

Edit: fixing really embarrassing typos. Ok, I'm not really embarrassed... and adding pic holding board

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Yup!  Using @@yyrkoon and wulfman's reflow control triac PCB from a couple years back.  Got it (the control PCB) mounted up on a slat of wood that I intend to screw into some studs on the wall just above the desk.

 Ah ha ! More wonderful wall art :)

 

Hows that board been working out for your by the way ? Honestly, we haven't used ours in quite a while. Wulf bought a commercial grade infrared reflow oven that has questionable firmware . . . that wulf want to try and create yet another PCB for, and attempt to control it via some sort of launchpad connected to a BBB . . . web interface and all . . .  lol he has way too much confidence in my coding ability ;) But actually it does sound like a pretty cool project.

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Making my first PCB using KiCAD, switching over from ZenitPCB. Next I am going make a prototype board with a LQFP-64 (TM4C123), will push my homemade PCB "printer" to its limits (its inherent resolution is 1200dpi).

 

post-45966-0-90741200-1440682314_thumb.jpg

 

PCB "printer" in action - a blu-ray laser (100mW), two steppers controlled by MSP430 and main rendering program written i C# for Windows.

 

post-45966-0-58470500-1440682542_thumb.jpg

 

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First PCB authored in KiCad - laminator is no good, and I am having some problems with dust. I am using Riston film - maybe better to use presensitized boards...

 

 

 

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