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t0mpr1c3

[Group Buy-18][D] WS2812 SMD RGB LEDs with integrated driver chip

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Stupid question I suppose, but are the $2.29 DS3231 modules on ebay likely to be fakes given that the wholesale price of the chip alone is substantially higher than that?

Holy crap! It's worth buying one at that price to find out IMO.

 

Sent from my Galaxy Note II with Tapatalk 4

 

 

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Stupid question I suppose, but are the $2.29 DS3231 modules on ebay likely to be fakes given that the wholesale price of the chip alone is substantially higher than that?

They'll likely work and everything. probably fine for a simple clock project. but would you trust it in something bigger? That's really upto you.

 

I bought some 9-DOF boards. for like ~$20 off ebay. and they seem to work fine, just as good as some $100+ sparkfun ones at the time. But, personally I'm not sure if I would trust them to be in a quadcopter though.

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Damn those things are bright, even at 3.6V I almost blinded myself. :)

 

They also seem a bit of a nightmare to hand solder with the leads almost completely recessed underneath. Somebody give me some tips here.

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Damn those things are bright, even at 3.6V I almost blinded myself. :)

 

They also seem a bit of a nightmare to hand solder with the leads almost completely recessed underneath. Somebody give me some tips here.

@@t0mpr1c3 Here is what I would normally do. If you do not have a PCB, I would just vice the LED and use steady hands.

1. Apply flux on the pads. If you do not have it, no issue.

2. Apply/wet one of the pads with solder. Now bring the LED onto the pad. Make sure if aligned and then wet the solder again to lock the led in its place. Now you can solder the other pads.

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One thing I noticed with the WS2811 LED pixels is that they're a bit sensitive to soldering temperature, particularly with hand soldering irons. I had the iron touching one pad for a bit more than a second (don't recall why, think I wasn't quite sure the solder joint was secured to the LED) and something boiled/popped inside the pixel and one of the metal leads inside the pixel was destroyed.

 

Sent from my Galaxy Note II with Tapatalk 4

 

 

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My technique therefore is to flux all PCB pads, tin one pad, position pixel on top of pads and hit that pad quickly with the iron to secure it, then hit each other pad w/ solder really quick. Works great.

 

If you don't get the alignment right first time, be sure to reposition it before you do the rest of the pads; and only adjust in quick strokes, touching the iron very briefly to melt the solder so the pixel will move a little bit.

Sent from my Galaxy Note II with Tapatalk 4
 

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I haven't heard anything yet so I think it will happen after New Year now. Elecrow reopens 6th Feb.

 

They're probably done and sitting on the dock.  I'm sure they'll ship out as soon as everyone's back from the New Year celebrations.

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See their blog:

"Our local logistics will be closed at Jan.25, 2 days before that we planned. Your Orders after Jan.20 will be shipped after the Spring Holiday."

That means they probably didn't do anything since Jan 20th.

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