Jump to content
greeeg

120 LED Ring Clock

Recommended Posts

Do we need to install the bypass caps?   

 

That really depends on the quality of your power-supply. and how many LEDs you'll have lit at the same time. 

 

Not having them could result in some unexpected behavior. A quick digi-key search shows 100x 0.1uF ~ $0.80. So it's not much of a cost for piece of mind.

 

That being said, my ring doesn't have any capacitors on it because I have no 0603 caps in my inventory. So they will be coming witch my next order. :P

 

 

@@t0mpr1c3 I guess it is. Who knew. :3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Controller boards arrived!!

 

I actually do not have some of the parts needed to make these. I am missing the level shifter, vreg, and accelerometer. 

DK and Mouser shipping is a flat $30 for orders < $200 to AUS, so I'm still in the process of pooling up an order for multiple projects.

 

I've soldered up the almighty MSP430, crystal, and 2 LEDs. Will get around to writing some code soon.

post-274-0-71384200-1395147133_thumb.jpg

 

These boards, since they were based off the ring boards, have similar minor errata as mentioned above/first post.

The via ground connect has been fixed though.

post-274-0-80392700-1395147654_thumb.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

anybody else have trouble chaining both rings together?  I used a WS2811 example in Energia for 120 leds and the second ring freaked out - the first few LEDs were fine, but after that - they were very bright colors (static as well - non-changing).  maybe I need to add a resistor like a couple people mentioned?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I Have experienced a similar issue with version 1. I put it down to a underrated power supply and not including the resistor between Vcc and Vdd as shown in the WS2812 data sheet.

But the new WS2812b don't need that.

 

Whats the current draw from the ring when it starts to act up?

 

Does the outer ring work perfectly when the LEDs before it aren't at full brightness/off?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been working on the code for the control board. Here is a quick demo.

 

 

 

I've ordered a few more parts (accelerometer, regulator, levelshifter) which my board is running without currently.

 

Here is a BOM (not including LEDs)

 

  • Accel (MMA 8453) $1.31
  • level converter       $0.26
  • resistor/caps    14x $0.003
  • regulator         $0.60
  • 32.768kHz crystal  $0.726
  • MSP430g2553  $2.73

Total: $5.40

 

Since the BOM is quite low, I would have no issue populating some of these board for other members, (I would make this a donation to cover BOM+time.) but how about a flat $10USD

If you'd like to DIY, I can ship the bare PCBs for free to members of the group-buy.

 

Also, if you'd like a controller, but don't have any LEDs left, I have a few left.

 

@@pyrosster @@dubnet @@t0mpr1c3 have already expressed interest, if you all drop me a PM, that would be much appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes that is the idea. The controller board makes use of the blank space in the back of the original boards. 1 controller + 4 slave segments will make up the whole ring.

 

However the controller board has a jumper so that you can bypass the MCU, making it appear just like the original segments. But then you'd have 4 unpopulated areas on the back of the ring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...