greeeg 460 Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 That's an interesting idea. I've designed the hole to accept M3 screws. (aslong as their heads aren't too big. OR This nice solder in standoff. http://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/1589-2/1589-2K-ND/318336 This will take a 2-56 sized screw. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t0mpr1c3 91 Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Thanks for efforts Greg. I just ordered 50x ledRing_2_02_D.zip Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cubeberg 540 Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 What's the dimension of the ring once assembled? Wondering if I can print something on my 3D printer to hold it (not that I couldn't make it in pieces. GeekDoc 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Craig 0 Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Thanks for adding mounting hole to the board, greg! I am thinking adding a laser-cut, translucent plexiglass cover to the clock for diffusion, so instead of adding the hole between the LEDs, I added a 'tab' to the inside of the circle, hopefully I can saw it off when not needed. I did some basic editing with my friend's copy (using remote desktop). This is my first time using Altium, The gerber files look fine to me, hopefully I did not make some terrible mistakes. What's the dimension of the ring once assembled? Wondering if I can print something on my 3D printer to hold it (not that I couldn't make it in pieces. The outer-most arc has a radius of 85 mm. So the completed ring would be a circle of diameter 17 cm. ledRing_2_021_Craig.zip Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cubeberg 540 Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Ah - too big to do a full print at once - my printer is 150mmX150mm. I can break it up though. GeekDoc 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GeekDoc 226 Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Ah - too big to do a full print at once - my printer is 150mmX150mm. I can break it up though. If you design something, I'd love to see it. Though, my printer is only 100x100. Can't wait to get my 250x250! cubeberg 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t0mpr1c3 91 Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Here's an in depth look at timing for WS2812/WS2812B signals from today's Hackaday. Claims that you can control them using an 8 bit AVR at 4 MHz. http://cpldcpu.wordpress.com/2014/01/14/light_ws2812-library-v2-0-part-i-understanding-the-ws2812/ GeekDoc, RobG, bluehash and 1 other 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greeeg 460 Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 My code above has the MSP430 running at ~8MHz. but I am dividing it by 2 and then feeding it into the USI. so technically the USI is running at 4MHz. From my experience the MSP's require more clock cycles to do most things that an AVR or PIC could do in less. but on the other hand you get a nice linear memory space. This is probably one of the best articles I've read about the WS2812 timing though, I'll be sure to put it to practice when I get my hands on those new LEDs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrychter 14 Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 That is a very good article, indeed. My results agree with theirs: what worked for my WS2812B strips was 1.3us total time, 400ns for 0H, 650ns for 1H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greeeg 460 Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 Sorry about the delay. but I finally started working on a controller design for anyone intrested. I wanted to make use of the valueline MSP's oscpin/captouch features. I've designed with capacitive buttons on the top of PCBs before, but due to the limited space I thought something diffrent was in order. The sensors themselves are small arc sections around the outer edge of the board. Each pad has ~3 vias also. This design should hopefully allow for a reasonable (probably coarse) slider. But in all honesty it might not work at all. I shall post results when the board comes. The MSP used is the 28 pin MSP430G2553. The circuit also features an accelerometer, LDO, and level shifter to drive the LEDs at 5v (just to be safe) Close up of top. LEDs and capacitor placement on top layer are identical. GeekDoc 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bluehash 1,581 Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 @@cubeberg and @@larsie have been working on some touch PCBs. Ideally a clock would need three different touch types. UP, DOWN and SET. You could touch, instead of a slide. I forget, but how do you set the clock on the current ones? Is it set while you program them? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greeeg 460 Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 @@cubeberg and @@larsie have been working on some touch PCBs. Ideally a clock would need three different touch types. UP, DOWN and SET. You could touch, instead of a slide. I forget, but how do you set the clock on the current ones? Is it set while you program them? I have alot of these 28 pin G2553's that I bought specifically becase they have lots of touch enabled pins. This will be the second project which I've used them. It may seem like overkill, but in my mind I'm imaginig tapping the side, the clock would then register that you wanted to change settings, (time / colours / timeout / brightness? who knows ) Then the slider would act as a delta, eg sliding clockwise would increment the clock, visaversa. The clock I made for POTM was driven with a recycled PCB and uses 2 buttons, one resets minutes and increments hours. the other increments the minutes by 5. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cubeberg 540 Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 I'm not sure what LEDs would do that close to cap touch pads. I've had LEDs turned on near cap touch pads make enough of a change that it looks like a touch. I had to turn the sensitivity down to get it to work (using TI cap touch libraries. TI also suggests a hatched ground plane below touch pads. What about having the pads stick out a bit? You've got some extra space inside or outside of the circle to reduce possible problems. bluehash 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greeeg 460 Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 I didn't think too much about the LEDs. I don't mind about the sensitivity, If each of the sensors is just a binary value that would work fine. I have been using the TI cap touch libs on a homemade PCB and it seems very robust. If the sensors dont work I could try implementing something with the accelorometer, it supports tap interrupts. cubeberg and GeekDoc 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cubeberg 540 Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Anybody decide on a power supply? I picked this up - http://www.ebay.com/itm/231047694904?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Output is 5.3v without a load - I'm going to put a load on it - hopefully it'll drop - 5.3v is absolute max for the device. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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