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Getting a RigidBot 3D printer, help me learn?

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for $660, it is a sweet deal, a heated build bed helps with the warping but also cause it as the top part cools and contracts, so keep the print area above the build bed temp regulated, no sudden temp change during print.  you can use small disc on the corners to increase surface area to prevent warping. 

using acetone to clean the kapton taped or glass build surface helps the print to stick.

 

I have never printed without a heated bed, so I cannot comment on that.

 

my usual workflow for a self designed part is to print with 0.34mm layer with 1 or 2 layer shell and 10% fills to test runs, then adjust according to my needs.

 

usually good finishing can be achieved with some modelling putty and sanding.

 

 

I didn't think they were going to make it to that last goal. I'm glad I was wrong! I hear that a heated build bed really helps keep the plastic from warping as it's printed.

I'm getting the RigidBot, with the upgraded z-axis stepper motors, front control panel with USB, heated 10x10" build bed, and 6kg of PLA filament for $660. From the quality I've seen in their updates, I think I am getting an amazing deal! :grin:

Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk 2

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Just some tips here, might be useful for anyone getting into 3D printing.

 

Some discreet step to creating a 3D print.

 

1. Design in CAD software and export to STL. (Autodesk Inventor / SCAD)

2. Slice the STL in Slicer software to generate gcode. (Skienforge / KISSlicer)

3. print with design using g-code interpreter (ReplicatorG)

 

  • I print ABS at 230 deg C, hotbed at 110deg C.
  • PLA at 235, 50 deg on the Hotbed.
  • for PLA I print not less that 80mm/s, extruder will jam if the PLA stays too long in the melt chamber.
  • for ABS, 60 to 120mm/s.
  • PLA is 'similar' to ice, turns liquid when heated to melting point, ABS will become soft gradually.
  • PLA produce print with sharper edge and more ridge details and is harder.
  • ABS is more flexible and has a higher melting point, PLA will deform when heated above 90 deg C (citation needed).
  • ABS cracks and warp during print, extra care needed to ensure there is no sudden temp change.
  • tramming / levelling your print bed is crucial for a good print, if the nozzle is too close to the bed, pressure build up in the melt chamber will cause the filament to strip.
  • if the nozzle is too far from the bed, print is likely to lift and warp.
  • keep nozzle and bed clean at all times. 
  • I kept a spare nozzle soaked in acetone.
  • keep your plastic in a dry place, I out them in big ziploc bags with silica gel.

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Thanks for the tips @@PentiumPC ! I particularly appreciate the tips on PLA print speed and keeping the spare nozzle. The point that PLA (like ice) doesn't really have a "plastic temperature", but rather goes from solid to liquid is also quite interesting. It would seem to me that the cooling fan/duct I see at the nozzle of many extruders would be of particular use for PLA.

 

For CAD, I've also been looking at TinkerCAD.com (recently purchased by AutoDesk), SketchUp (Google's CAD offering), and AutoDesk's free 123Design to do my own designs.

 

Slic3r is an open-source... well... slicer that I've been looking at. It's in active and sponsored development, so seems to be getting steadily better.

 

Some time down the line, I may try running OctoPrint on a RaspberryPi as a web-interfaced combination slicer and G-code generator.

 

I feel like I'm getting into 3D printing just as it's reaching, not maturity, but maybe later childhood. I am excited to see what's ahead for home 3D printing!

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I have not tried Slic3r, I recently switched to KisSlicer and it is amazing, I do hope it is open-source and I am willing to pay for it, basically it has some feature that cannot be replicated in others.

 

Yeah, it is exciting, 3D printing is moving so fast that you have to relearn many things as you go along. I am excited to share your experience and knowledge and will do my best to share what I know.

 

Currently I am upgrading my Bot to fix the issues that Makerbot refuse to fix and forgotten about upgrades for Rep1 user .

 

Next upgrade is a Glass bed and replacing some part with aluminum- I just got a quote from a local company for a small piece Boroslicate glass at $350, that is super crazy.

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Currently I am upgrading my Bot to fix the issues that Makerbot refuse to fix and forgotten about upgrades for Rep1 user .

 

Next upgrade is a Glass bed and replacing some part with aluminum- I just got a quote from a local company for a small piece Boroslicate glass at $350, that is super crazy.

 

I've heard that MakerBot support is... less than stellar.

 

I did a quick ebay search for "3D Printer Glass" and got a bunch of listings in the $25-75 range for borosilicate glass.  Might be worth the shipping delay.

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I've heard that MakerBot support is... less than stellar.

 

I did a quick ebay search for "3D Printer Glass" and got a bunch of listings in the $25-75 range for borosilicate glass.  Might be worth the shipping delay.

 

Makerbot support responds vey quickly with answers that you don't need. Support only knows the surface and they make it too tedious for you to follow up.

 

Heading down to the local frame maker for enquires when I have the time.

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Went to the frame maker today, he charged me a bomb for a piece of branded German Borosilcate Glass, the thing about Singapore it is sometimes hard to find parts, most businesses are not interested in dealing with end-users, those that do, charges you a premium, the borosilcate glass cost about $80, the guy throw in a $3 piece of regular soda-lime glass for me. 

 

Tested printing with the regular glass, non heated, I am very impressed with the results, the piece came out clean and nice, not much stringing issues and definitely no melted base problem.

 

Calibration was done at 0.1mm layer height, the glass is pretty flat, much better than the aluminium bed that come with the replicator.

Printed at around 225deg C, non heated glass platform coated with PVA white glue. 0.2mm layer thickness. if I stick to PLA I will happy with this piece of $3 glass.

 

post-1099-0-11662400-1369860732_thumb.jpg

 

Tested and meddle with hairspray but did work, will mess with active cooling next.

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I've already thought of some fun things to print.  One is a scale model of my new apartment; a doll house for a grown-up, male geek. ;-)

 

Lots of other handy things where I'm thinking of a small project, and just think, "Oh, I can just print that part."

 

Is it November yet?

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Just bought a PrintrBot Jr - apparently they're releasing a V2, so I get the upgraded version for free :)  Excited about having a 3d printer - already thinking about the LP bots I can make!

Anybody ever buy filament from Alibaba?  An initial glance showed a lot of good prices (~$10/kg), but without shipping cost.  

Ran across this site that sells 1kg spools for about $35 - http://makergeeks.com/plafilament.html - seems about the going price.  Found a couple of ebay sellers in the US with similar prices.

 

How much is a good amount to start?  I've got a bit coming with the printer, plus an extra 1kg to get me started - not sure if that'll take care of me for a while, or if I need a couple more spools.

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Ran across this site that sells 1kg spools for about $35 - http://makergeeks.com/plafilament.html - seems about the going price.  Found a couple of ebay sellers in the US with similar prices.

 

How much is a good amount to start?  I've got a bit coming with the printer, plus an extra 1kg to get me started - not sure if that'll take care of me for a while, or if I need a couple more spools.

 

I've got Amazon Prime, so $35 including 2-day shipping from Amazon is where I plan to get any extra spools I need.  I don't think that'll be any time soon, though, since I will be getting 6kg of filament with my printer (maybe 11kg, I haven't decided yet).

 

I think 1kg should be pretty good to start.  2lbs of plastic widgets seems quite a bit.  Though having more spools opens up the possibility of more colors.

 

Gratz on the printer!

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Hi friends, i'm also new to rigidbot 3d printer. there was some confusion before getting it.

 

I was to buy makerbot replicator, but after reading  review of rigidbot and its benefits i changed my mind. can any one provide me rigidbot 3d printer model files for sample print??

 

thanks in advance :)

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