Jump to content
43oh

MAX31855 based reflow oven controller


Recommended Posts

Well with the chinese taking some 2 week holiday i had to work extra hard and i finished up the other boards i was working on and made the order. I hope they produce quality boards. I will need to test the design and yyrkoon
 needs to get busy and program up some more code to test it but i think it will work out ok.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

First, Much thanks to Rickta59 for helping me understand various aspects of the MSP430 in hardware, and software. Then to Spirilis who wrote the SPI initialization, and usage code in an attempt to hel

The one with the LCD on it is the one I'm testing with, the other one is the fully populated board. They're both identical I think, except the one I'm testing with have no TRIACs, and the one I'm test

BTA26-800BWRG triac = $3.20 each                                     this will easily handle the heater current MOC3063S-TA1 zero crossing triac driver  - 47 cents each   3.3 volt turn on makes a smo

jpnorair, really depends on how many join in, but around $5 for a bare board, plus ~$2-$3 USPS shipping. We're not looking to make anything, just trying to minimize costs for everyone including ourselves..

 

I'll commit to two boards.  That way, I can ruin one.   :smile:  If all goes well, I'll be swapping the G2553 for a CC430 with RF link back to my PC.  Or, more specifically a USB stick on my WiFi router that the network thinks is a printer.  Yay USB printer sharing...

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll commit to two boards.  That way, I can ruin one.   :smile:  If all goes well, I'll be swapping the G2553 for a CC430 with RF link back to my PC.  Or, more specifically a USB stick on my WiFi router that the network thinks is a printer.  Yay USB printer sharing...

lol, im jealous, I can not justify ~$130 for one of those dev boards. But, I did plan on working with a couple of the low cost RF devices Spirilis used in his BT smoker project. Can't beat $1.28 each in quantities of 10. Perhaps those "low power RF" kits have better range though, don't remember been a while since I have read about them.

 

On a personal level I would rather control the oven over a Serial connection, like it seems you want to do. Thus reducing costs and "hassle" of dealing with an LCD and buttons ( even oPossums template library takes up quite a bit of space on the target ), But wulf likes the Idea of the controller running stand alone without any PC interaction  *shrug* The option will be there for anyone wanting to use it that way. 

 

So, as it stand 4-5 boards taken out of 10.

 

Richard, are you in ?

Link to post
Share on other sites

lol, im jealous, I can not justify ~$130 for one of those dev boards.

I need this reflow toaster in order to make cheaper CC430 kits.  That said, Olimex makes a cheap one for 868 MHz.  I use predominantly 433 MHz, but to go across the room it really doesn't matter.  Maybe if I had the reflow toaster in the garage and I wanted to monitor progress from my neighbor's pool across the street, then 433 MHz would be a requirement.  But I live in a small apartment, anyway.  :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

I want to play. In for 2, if you can do so, or 1 if that is what is available. When do you estimate an exchange of prisoners (money/board)?

Ok, I would have to double check, but i believe that puts us at or close to 9-10 boards taken.

 

Just a heads up, we're not sure exactly when the board will get here. We may have beaten Chinese new year, or may get hung up. Original message wulfman got from them indicated shipping would take 10-12 days, now, they've sent another message, and we're not sure.

 

Will apprise as to what going on when we know more ourselves.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good yyrkoon! Best of luck with your project. Always cool to see other people building their own reflow oven. Was curious regarding your project, which toaster oven were you planning to use?

It's a convection oven actually, and I did not buy it, wulfman bought it. I want to say he got it at wal-mart, but I am not positive.

 

I really like the look of your C# controller app there, and is something like what I wanted to do later after initial firmware was done. Perhaps even moving a lot of the controller app off onto the PC. But that is something I was considering after the base application was done. wulfman does not really care about PC interaction  and since he is the reason why I am writing this firmware to begin with . . . anything I do add over and beyond what he wants for his reflow oven will not get used here locally. In the end, I am not sure exactly what I will do firmware wise. I have lots of other projects I would like to start toying with too.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a question. Any people out there going to run this on 220volts ? when I did my AC mains spacing I set it to the US 120 volt trace spacing of 25 mills. I did not take into consideration that i would be even selling these to anywhere other than the US. I suppose in later versions I can space them out or make a version that has larger spacing and smaller trace width as 220 needs 1/2 the copper for the current. Just a thought I am sure that it would be fine for short duration usage and if you are worried you can trim the copper down a bit with an exacto blade. The 5 volt power supply i am using costs 2 dollars from china and can handle the 220 volts as well as 120. lol they are cheap and non certified but seem to do the job. If you take a look at the PCBs there is room on the board to take the PCB out of the wal-wart and silicon it to the board as there are no mounting holes on the supply board. Let me know what you think.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, I should have mentioned I'm on 220. Happy to give my 2 up to someone else but also happy to pay for them and donate.

I'm looking at the board design.  Here's an option for you:

 

On the back side, you probably don't need to remove any copper.  If you want to be extra careful, you can trim the area around two of the plated holes.  Probably negligible.

 

On the front side, you can just sever and bypass the trace that starts near "J13" marking with your own wire.

 

It doesn't appear that AC is being distributed anywhere other than the edge of the board, presumably where the MOC parts are.

 

This is a 20 minute job, by my estimation, and there's no fine-pitch working.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...