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[S]IV-18 VFD Clock Booster Pack


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Success!   The only issue so far - I flipped the header for the plug-in board for the tube in the schematic and didn't flip it on the PCB. Had to solder it on the other side, no big deal.   I'm c

Update - demo video recorded and added to first post!

Whaaaa, 22 ohms isn't the same as 22k? *smackface*  

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Actually - now that I look at it - it might be the size of the inductor. The color codes are the same, but the physical size is completely different. Here's a side-by-side comparison:

post-6158-135135571161_thumb.png

 

If the inductor isn't large enough and is saturating, I'm guessing that's leading to the overheating. When I get my kit - I'll try swapping the inductor.

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Yep - it's the inductor. I tried with the smaller inductor and was able to get a pretty good stink off of the boost chip after a couple of seconds when I turned up the trim-pots just a bit (~35v). Putting in one of the inductors I got in an earlier batch of parts - the device runs nice and cool even when turned up all the way (over 50V).

 

I've already contacted Tayda about the parts (including the buttons as well). Worst case - we can source axial inductors from someplace else.

 

Does someone have a way of measuring inductance to see if they are indeed 68uH? I'm wondering if it's the inductance that's wrong, or some other characteristic of the part. If someone does - let me know. I could send someone the larger inductor for testing as well.

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LariSan - do you have a datasheet? I'd be interested in the current limits (looks like you meant to include a link).

Also - if you turn down your pots all the way (you've got them at half) to reduce current to a minimum - does it stay cool? This would reduce the current requirements.

 

I'm still waiting on the v1.1 PCB to validate that it's not the PCB either, but I have built a boost circuit with a full set of the latest batch of parts.

 

Since you seem to be able to run your board for a bit without burning up - what current rating are you getting on the banded side of the schottky (nearest to the capacitors)?

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Does someone have a way of measuring inductance to see if they are indeed 68uH? I'm wondering if it's the inductance that's wrong, or some other characteristic of the part. If someone does - let me know. I could send someone the larger inductor for testing as well.

 

I have an Agilent LCR meter. You are welcome to send anything to me for testing. I can confirm the uH rating, Q and some other specs. I don't have a way to measure saturation current - and I think that is the problem causing the MC34063 to get hot.

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Hi Cube,

Sadly, I got it from the resale store (Tanner Electronics) and they couldn't find the data sheet. I only attached the colour code reading guide.

 

I did try it with both of the pots turned way down and it's the same. It delays, but still gets hot.

I'm not near any equiptment today, so I wasn't able to test it out. I'll make sure to do it when I get home and will get back to you!

 

 

Not sure if it helps, but I poked around the data sheet and came across something that could be interesting.

The sample schematic for this part: http://www.ti.com/tool/pmp7006 (no idea why it's not included in the part's datasheet).

looks a little bit different from the board schematic.

 

8125679139_6aee2d1bd8.jpg

pmp7006 schematic by laraswanland, on Flickr

[tipdf]slls636m[/tipdf]

 

post-3-0-71631000-1351623321_thumb.jpg

boosterpack schematic by laraswanland, on Flickr

 

Could that possibly be the issue?

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