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RobG

Nokia 5110 Booster Pack

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Hi

 

I posted a blog entry about your display booster pack.

 

http://rubines.blogspot.co.at/2013/07/nokia-5110-booste-pack.html

 

Cheers

Rubi

@@Rubi Good stuff. Keep the blog posts coming. Also add a link to your blog in your signature. If you are interested in doing a writeup on the OLED board, PM me.. I can sponsor you one if you are interested.

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@@Rubi Good stuff. Keep the blog posts coming. Also add a link to your blog in your signature. If you are interested in doing a writeup on the OLED board, PM me.. I can sponsor you one if you are interested.

Hi

 

Great I would love to "review" the oled board.

Thank you!

Btw. the Ti Msp environment is awsome, great support from Ti , great tools and a great community.

What else could you wish for,...

 

Cheers

Michael

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I grabbed one of the $57 CC3000EM+Fraunchpad packs the other day and have been playing with it all night. Is this Booster supported on the MSP-EXP430FR5739? It physically fits, so I'm thinking it might just be a matter of modifying the driver?

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To answer my 6 month old question: Yes, it's workable on the Fraunchpad.

 

To ask another question: When will these be back in stock on the Store/Tindie? I'd like to pickup a few for some upcoming small projects!

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To answer my 6 month old question: Yes, it's workable on the Fraunchpad.

 

To ask another question: When will these be back in stock on the Store/Tindie? I'd like to pickup a few for some upcoming small projects!

@@timb It already is: http://store.43oh.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=75&search=5110

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@@bluehash Just an FYI, the schematic/pinout listed on the product page is incorrect. You should be using the one from this post. The jumper pinouts changed significantly, so I'm sure it's very confusing to people who stumble onto the store or this thread. (Every time I go back to use one of the shields I always end up checking the jumper pinout and then get confused why D/C isn't working!)

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@@bluehash Just an FYI, the schematic/pinout listed on the product page is incorrect. You should be using the one from this post. The jumper pinouts changed significantly, so I'm sure it's very confusing to people who stumble onto the store or this thread. (Every time I go back to use one of the shields I always end up checking the jumper pinout and then get confused why D/C isn't working!)

Thanks @@timb. I fixed the store link.

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Hey @@RobG (or anyone else): You have a source on the "SparkFun Style" 5110 units on eBay? All I can seem to find is the alternate pinout (RST, CE, DC, DIN, CLK, VCC, LED, GND) units. I swore I've seen the style compatible with this board on eBay before, just can't find it. (I'm looking to get 5 or 10 of them in a lot.)

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@@RobG Hmmm, nice find! I really wanted ones with a white backlight, but beggars can't be choosers I suppose. (I really despise blue backlights; it's the absolute worst color for night vision. Plus I got burnt out on them during the early 2000's when every piece of consumer gear came with ultra-bright blue LEDs.)

 

An alternate pinout board would be nice! If you do a redesign, a few nice things to have:

 

1) Wire P1.7 (MOSI) from the onboard MSP430 directly to SI on the LCD.

 

2) Add a solder jumper / zero ohm resistor pad from SCLK on the LCD to P1.5 on the booster pack header (but still run it straight to the MSP430).

 

This way the LCD signals would be isolated from the booster pack headers. (From looking at the schematic, all the other signals (DC, CS, RST) go straight to the onboard MSP430 and have solder pads isolating them from the booster pack headers.)

 

3) Have a second resistor pad from the Backlight going to the currently unused P2.6, which would let you control the backlight level via PWM!

 

Instead of two boards or a single board and a bunch of jumpers, maybe you could use the fact that the Nokia 5110 boards have connectors on the top and bottom? On your board, you'd have the top connector work with the SparkFun style boards and the bottom connector would route the Chinese style ones. If a user wanted to solder both headers on for stability, they could just use an Xacto Knife to slice straight through the traces coming from the pins.

 

Just a few ideas!

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@@timb, here's one with white backlight (I dislike blue too.)

 

The problem with having one type on top and one on the bottom is that some LCDs come with soldered headers. Cutting traces is an option, but I would like to avoid it.

I could do 2 versions of PCB and sell them bare or just make one and sell with LCD (if I buy bulk, my price would be comparable to eBay's.)

If I decide to do 2 types on one PCB, then I could do 2 things. One would be PCB with a set of solder jumpers, second would be PCB with 2 sets of pads for 2 types of LCD.

1. solder jumpers, solder top side of jumpers for one type, lower side for the other

post-73-0-00350600-1395496785_thumb.png

2. 2 sets of pads, top set for one type of LCD, bottom for the other.

post-73-0-98378500-1395496801_thumb.png

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Option #1 looks the cleanest, so my first reaction is to go with that. What do you think?

 

Thanks for that eBay link! The pictures show the incompatible type of pinout, but the description has it listed differently. I'd confirm first, but that's a good price!

 

I ended up finding them on Amazon for $6 and bought a few. I was leery but they're the right pinout, so yay! Free Prime Shipping, too!

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