timb 15 Posted July 14, 2013 Share Posted July 14, 2013 Okay, so I can just use physical jumpers like this: P1.4 > SCE, P1.0 > RST, P1.6 > D/C, P1.7 > DNK Then I don't have to worry about soldering in anything? (Other than R8 for the backlight, which I already screwed up by pulling one of the pads off when trying to nip excess solder. Pro Tip: Don't work on circuits after being up for 36 hours.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timb 15 Posted July 14, 2013 Share Posted July 14, 2013 Oh yeah, and do you have any example code other than the UART stuff on the previous page? I wrote my own hardware SPI Raspberry Pi library for the 5110 and don't want to reinvent the wheel if there's already a library and demo code available for the 430. Edit: Never mind, I found it like 5 minutes after posting this. Looking around the forums (and Google) is your friend! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timb 15 Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Okay, so I can just use physical jumpers like this: P1.4 > SCE, P1.0 > RST, P1.6 > D/C, P1.7 > DNK Then I don't have to worry about soldering in anything? (Other than R8 for the backlight, which I already screwed up by pulling one of the pads off when trying to nip excess solder. Pro Tip: Don't work on circuits after being up for 36 hours.) Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobG 1,892 Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 Yes, this should work. This is exactly why I have those headers. If you want simple config, use headers, if you want more options, use solder jumpers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timb 15 Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Cool, thanks! I'll give it a try in the morning. Everything is sort of scattered between various posts (as often happens) so it's quite confusing looking at it as an outsider. (I only found the board after seeing the Nokia Library mentioned on the Energia page and bought one because it was very fairly priced.) I'm actually working on a <$20 CC3300 booster pack at the moment, so a working LCD will be nice for basic debugging! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timb 15 Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 Just wanted to report back that I got it working! Oddly enough I could not get the Energia library to work with 1.6=D/C & 1.7=MOSI set. It would only function in reverse order (1.7=D/C & 1.6=MOSI). Weird, eh? Also, from tracing the back of the board, it doesn't seem like the backlight is wired into any of the pins, correct? (It appears to simply go straight from R8 to VCC, right?) I ask because I noticed the library includes backlight control. Not a big deal really, I already screwed that pad up so I can just heat shrink a resistor and use that as a makeshift jumper wire to one of the pins. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timb 15 Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 Just noticed something interesting. I was fiddling around with the jumpers and the display appears to work perfectly without RST actually hooked to anything! Right now there's no RST jumper installed and absolutely nothing soldered onto the back. I've uploaded this program several times, used the reset button and physically unplugged the power with no change. Since RST is jumpered to P1.0 which is also shared with RED_LED, I went ahead and re-rumpered both as an easy way to see what was going on. It was always lit (high). The next thing I tried to do was force it low, which still didn't cause any changes. Finally I had it cycle between low and high in the middle of the loop call, which still changed nothing. So, uh, what am I missing in regards to the RST pin's function? When I wrote my Raspberry Pi library for this LCD, I remember having to pulse the RST pin low within 1/10th of a second from power on. So I've got no clue how this thing is initializing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobG 1,892 Posted July 22, 2013 Author Share Posted July 22, 2013 Just wanted to report back that I got it working! Oddly enough I could not get the Energia library to work with 1.6=D/C & 1.7=MOSI set. It would only function in reverse order (1.7=D/C & 1.6=MOSI). Weird, eh? Which MSP do you have, 2553 or 2331? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timb 15 Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 G2553 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobG 1,892 Posted July 22, 2013 Author Share Posted July 22, 2013 Hmm, I wonder if your LCD has a diff pinout, there are several available (5110 LCD boards are designed and made by many vendors.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timb 15 Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 It came from Sparkfun which is the reference board used for this design, right? Tried it again earlier and same deal with D/C and MOSI. I'm going to give it a try tomorrow hardwired directly from the display, I'll report back. I did notice that if the RST jumper isn't set the device will occasionally start up with no display (maybe one in 20 times) like I'd expect. Other times it'll start with an odd contrast (perhaps 1 in 10 times). Neither problems appear with the RST jumper set. It's still boggling my mind that this thing is working like that. (I thought the pin might just be floating and bouncing low often enough to work, so I tied the LCD's RST pin permanently high via a resistor. Still worked.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobG 1,892 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 The reason LCD works without RST is because values in memory are preserved for some time, could be seconds, minutes, or even hours. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rubi 11 Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Hi RobG Great booster, I love it. I thought solder it together how much time could it take and write a blog entry, what possibly could go wrong. Of course I decided the standalone version. Unfortunately it was impossible to program this little bugger. I always became the error message no connection. After some hours and pretty much desperate, I compared the board to the Powerscope, where the reset circuit is only a resistor, without capacity. Then I removed the 1nf cap and the board was programmable. Any ideas why ? The RC combination is a very usual reset circuit taking care that the processor only comes to live after the circuit power is settled. Anyhow, after solving this issue the rest was a breeze. Cheers Rubi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobG 1,892 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Never had a problem with this setup. Did you try with different cap? If the cap is too big or too small, you may experience programming issues. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rubi 11 Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Hi I tried first an 10nF and then a 1nF, because I was not sure what the correct capacity is. And only after completely removing the cap the programmer recognized the board. I also verified the caps with an Lcr meter and the smaller one was about 1047pF. Cheers Rubi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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