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Color LCD Booster Pack


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N6085 and N6101 done too.

Both displays suppose to be the same, but the 6101 compatible replacement I got from eBay is not behaving as the original screen form 6085, needs some adjustments with reset/init. It's also possible that it is just a low quality product :)

 

Here's some test code with init, read id and status, draw pixel, draw char, and draw string.

There are 2 versions of each function, 8-bit and 16-bit, so if you need speed and limited number of colors, you can just use 8-bit graphics.

I will be adding more routines in the next few days.

 

16-bit mode N6085

 

N6101/N6085 compatible from eBay

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@Kabron  First of all, welcome to the forum.,   Based on your posts thus far, it appears that you may not fully understand what this board/community is all about. It is a forum for sharing experienc

Here's some basic JD-T1800 code for testing purposes...   ...and a short video     main.c #include #include "ST7735.h" #define JDT1800_WIDTH 128 #define JDT1800_HEIGHT 160 #define JD

First try, we've got color! Well, it's all gibberish now, but it's a start. ST7735's documentation has 167 pages   The display below is 1.8" TFT 128 x 160, JD-T1800  

Posted Images

While working on the software tonight, my display became unresponsive. I thought it got zapped by ESD or something so I ordered a new one. Before chucking it, I figured I will run a soldering iron through the contacts just to make sure. Well, that was it, cold solder! I hate when that happens.

Not sure what's going on with those displays. My second one was working fine, but when I left it on for a while, it stopped working and it's just blank. I got the feeling they do not like 3.6V.

Well, will order another one and try with 3V just to be sure.

 

This begs the question: what's the purpose and benefit of using 3.6V?

 

[EDIT] Displays are fine! It was the flux that was causing the problem!

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FYI - Here's my fix for the voltage issue with the JD-T1800 LCD. I used a MCP1700 3.3v LDO and two of the available, unused capacitor locations for the 1uF capacitors needed for the LDO. Voltage reads at 3.27v. The only issue I've found so far is that the LCD doesn't seem to initialize first when power is applied - possibly because power isn't available from the LDO immediately (it works after a hardware reset)? I'm going to try to add a delay into the startup to see if it fixes the issue.

 

**Edit** I added a _delay_cycles(5000) which appears to have corrected the initialization issue.

 

Legend for the picture

1 - Cut LP's 3.6v VCC trace

2 - 1uF capacitor for Vin

3 - 1uF capacitor for Vout

4 - GND

5 - 3.6v for Vin to LDO

 

Not the prettiest, but at least I won't blow my LCD, let's me continue to run the LP at 3.6v (assuming it's OK with 3.6v I/O) and at a full 16mhz.

post-6158-135135545936_thumb.jpg

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As it turns out, my JD-T1800 issues are related to the type of flux I was using (it got under the flex strip and shorted and then corroded LCD's pads.)

 

@bluehash, can you update Color LCD board description in the store? JD-T1800 is OK @ 3.6V :)

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As it turns out, my JD-T1800 issues are related to the type of flux I was using (it got under the flex strip and shorted and then corroded LCD's connections.)

 

@bluehash, can you update Color LCD board description in the store? JD-T1800 is OK @ 3.6V :)

 

Glad to hear you got that figured out - what flux did you end up using?

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...what flux did you end up using?

#951, though I am not happy with it, I will try different ones, like #186 and #959T.

Anyone has an opinion about those two?

 

BTW, I have a fix for my Nokia lib to make it work with JD-T display, all you need is an extra delay after SWRESET

 

...
void initST7735R() {

writeCommand(SWRESET);
delay(20);
writeCommand(SLEEPOUT);
...

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Yes, that display will work with the red board (not the green one.)

Back light requires TPS60403 charge pump and when on, the display draws ~53mA.

You will also need to get Hirose 22pin socket, really hard to get and very fragile (they are 0.5mm pitch.)

 

I would suggest you get JD-T1800 instead of Nokia, twice the price but no socket and no charge pump needed.

 

Your other option is Nokia 6110, you will still need a charge pump and a socket, but those 10pin sockets are available at Mouser for ~$0.60 or sometimes on eBay.

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