bluehash 1,581 Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Wow thanks. I'm unable to see any pictures though. Put them on imgur and link it there. I'll attach them later. Also, If you could... if this discussion goes into more than three posts, you may want to create a thread for yourself and place a link to it here. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
username 198 Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 Nice wagnerlip! See, many different ways to do this. Its cool that you use the SSR, any chance have a part # for that or a price tag? Always wanted to try a SSR sometime. Interesting also that you used a thermistor, I didn't know they could be accurate over such large temp ranges. i'd be neat to test their accuracy versus a thermocouple. Will have to try it out. I'd be fun as a community project to see who can build the cheapest & quality oven. Might have to give thermistors a try and see how accurate they are. Looks like this one might just do the trick: http://search.digikey.com/us/en/product ... ND/1220081 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kylej1050 27 Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 I'd be fun as a community project to see who can build the cheapest & quality oven. That sounds like a neat idea! After I finish my foundry of course. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
larsie 121 Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 In Norway I have problems getting a cheap toaster oven, so some other way of building this would be cool. Could something like this work? Edit: Found a normal oven that was ok priced. Is 1380 W enough? The above oven might still be an ok option, as it includes a fan, is 2000 W and is cheaper. I'd have to build a box with a broad pipe that leads the heat from the heater into the box I guess. Edit2: Now this is probably a stupid question, but do you think I could build it with something like this: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kylej1050 27 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 The slice oven will work if you use it on its side, in fact it might be easier to control cool down and will allow for faster ramp-ups since it has such a low thermal mass. Thanks for the idea... I might have to go that route! Just make sure it doesn't try to eject your board when its done! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bluehash 1,581 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Leaving a toaster on its side is a very bad idea. The vents also allow heat to escape. Placing the toaster on its side will cause heat to linger inside the toaster a little longer and probably catch fire. I've only heard stories though, but it does make sense. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kylej1050 27 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 I would guess that is less of an issue with controlled temperature like you want in what we are up to. But, only one way to find out... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nuetron 64 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 How well would a microwave oven work? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bluehash 1,581 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 How well would a microwave oven work? Not sure if trick question In all seriousness... electronics should be kept away from microwaves. Microwaves are bad and will destroy any electronic components. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nuetron 64 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Ha ha! I was going to ask, "How well would a microwave oven control board work?", but thought it would be funny to leave out those words. So, would it? The model I recently took apart looked like it had everything needed on-board except temp sensor, and the micro was in a 40-pin socket. Wouldn't be too hard to make a pcb to fit in that socket, and connect an element to the relay... But then there is the problem of so many microwave makes and models... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
larsie 121 Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Old topic, but here's a link I found about a project where he used a pop-up toaster to build a reflow oven: http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/smtoast.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nuetron 64 Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 That's pretty neat! I may do that to help me un-solder through-hole chips... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobG 1,892 Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 Sears has this digital oven on sale right now and I am wondering if it can be hack for SMD work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
abecedarian 330 Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 Sears has this digital oven on sale right now and I am wondering if it can be hack for SMD work. If anyone could, I'm sure it's you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
username 198 Posted February 2, 2013 Author Share Posted February 2, 2013 Just an update on this since I have not posted in a awhile. I did a second version of my reflow oven with an IR oven and a solid state relay. With this, I could ideally implement a better profile. You have 3 traditional methods of transferring heat. Convection (through air) Conduction (through physical contact) Radiation (IR for example) My previous oven was convection so turning it off and on quickly didn't have much of an effect. It took too long for the heat to propagate to the board. My next oven design used a George Foreman IR oven for 55 usd from walmart. Using this combined with a SSR I was able to create rather quick profiles close to production speed. Oven: http://www.walmart.com/ip/George-Foreman-Infrared-Countertop-Oven-with-Rotisserie/19411514 I also wrote a C# GUI that allowed me to do live plots of the data I was receiving and this allowed me to implement P, PI, and PID algorithms and test them out. Connection for this GUI used a FT230 FTDI chip for USB communication. Here is a picture example of my leaded profile *Note, we are dealing with IR heating here. The board temp is actually about 20C-30C higher than the air temp. V2 pic of board: (top remained the same). V2 was for friends and for school since they didn't have a relfow oven. The version that uses USB was bread boarded... I may make a V3 with a color LCD and USB onboard. However, price keeps going up as I add those options. Generally hobbyists are only interested in dirt chip... Still have yet to make my dirt cheap version of all of this yet. bluehash and yyrkoon 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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