General use triac boards

[luke 9]

Hi Rob

 

I was just trying to figure out how I was going to build a hopefully trivial zero detect circuit when I say this update to the thread.

 

First,would you mind sharing the schematic so I can see how you did it?

 

Second, do you feel like selling a couple of these boards (preferably assembled but I'll settle for bare boards, schematic and BOM).

[RobG 1,892]

I will not be selling assembled boards, just PCBs.

Also, I was going to use H11AA1M instead of PC814 but forgot to include it on the board. The next revision will have space for both.

 

[trumps2000 1]

Hi Rob, This new version is exactly what I'm looking for!  Where can I buy one?

 

Thanks

Ken

[RobG 1,892]

Right now you can get this PCB directly from me.

I'll have a slightly different version in a month or so (one with H11AA1M.)

[trumps2000 1]

Whats the advantage of using the H11AA1M?

[RobG 1,892]

No advantage, just another package (commonly used on Renard boards.)

[Hrebec 0]

Why are the BTA16's not installed in all of the pictures of the four channel board both in this forum and in the store? I am just a novice, but It doesn't seem that this board will work as layed out without the BTA16's installed and everything else is populated.

 

I don't care much as I just wanted the board for switching a 30 mA 24VAC signal and so do not need the bigger BTAs as the MOCs will suffice.

[RobG 1,892]

Space is limited on this board, so regular terminals will not work. See here.

[Hrebec 0]

Space is limited on this board, so regular terminals will not work. See here.

 

I understand the terminals and have no question about them.

 

In those pictures (quoted aboe) T1-T4 do not seem to be populated; the BTA Triacs are not installed along the back edge of the board behind the terminals as indicated by the arrow in the triacboard.png file.

[RobG 1,892]

My original design called for triacs to be mounted under the board, but they can also be mounted on top.

Since the space is tight, triacs should have isolated tabs and should be attached to a flat surface heat sink.

I had 16 triacs mounted on top of the heat sink, with their leads bent upwards. 4 boards were mounted above triacs.

 

I don't have any assembled boards right now, but this is how they fit:

 

[Hrebec 0]

Thanks for the pics. All the other pictures were top view and I couldn't tell if there was anything soldered in the triac holes. I though I was loosing it (more so than normal) and missing something; turns out it was the bottom of the board.

[TheShitAbyss 0]

hello  might you have the .brd file for this dual triac with the snubber circuit handy.  I would like to mill up my self this weekend. I am making a wood stove controller and would like to use triacs to turn things on and off.

 

Thanks

Jerome

I will have few of the following boards available very soon. All boards are 2" x 2".

1. Dual triac board - vertically mounted triacs, can be used with insulated or non-insulated triacs, mounting holes for triac and opto-coupler snubbers, space for heatsinks
2. Quad triac board - vertically or horizontally mounted triacs, can be used with insulated or non-insulated triacs, non-inductive loads or snubberless triacs

2chtb.png
2chtbb.png

tb4.png
tb3.png

[boxysean2 0]

Hey Rob,

 

I'm noticing my 1/2 watt resistors (220 ohm) are getting very hot with the AC plugged in. Have you experienced this? I think I burned out a couple of resistors with this!

 

Thanks,

 

Sean

[RobG 1,892]

Hi @@boxysean2, which resistors are you referring to?

[boxysean2 0]

In reference to this board, R8 and R9. I am using these resistors.

 

It happened in both boards I assembled. Using 110V AC, and using a simple fading dimmer program. In fact, they get hot with just the AC plugged in and no control signal.

 

Oh shoot, looks like I'm using the wrong resistors, according to your diagram they should be 22K resistors and I'm using 2.2K. Uuups.