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General use triac boards

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Hi Rob


I was just trying to figure out how I was going to build a hopefully trivial zero detect circuit when I say this update to the thread.


First,would you mind sharing the schematic so I can see how you did it?


Second, do you feel like selling a couple of these boards (preferably assembled but I'll settle for bare boards, schematic and BOM).

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The BOM will depend on what you want to use this board for and on the triacs.   Here's my BOM (post #2,) for non-inductive loads, light bulbs for example:   Triac - BTA16-600BW - you can use BTA06

Boards are here, if anyone is interested, you can buy them from the store in few days.   Will post pictures with assembled boards later today.   Also, the 2 triac board has one more feature which

I have a new version of this board and there are 2 major differences.   1. AC input & two AC outputs 2. Zero crossing detector     

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  • 2 months later...
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Why are the BTA16's not installed in all of the pictures of the four channel board both in this forum and in the store? I am just a novice, but It doesn't seem that this board will work as layed out without the BTA16's installed and everything else is populated.


I don't care much as I just wanted the board for switching a 30 mA 24VAC signal and so do not need the bigger BTAs as the MOCs will suffice.

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Space is limited on this board, so regular terminals will not work. See here.


I understand the terminals and have no question about them.


In those pictures (quoted aboe) T1-T4 do not seem to be populated; the BTA Triacs are not installed along the back edge of the board behind the terminals as indicated by the arrow in the triacboard.png file.


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My original design called for triacs to be mounted under the board, but they can also be mounted on top.

Since the space is tight, triacs should have isolated tabs and should be attached to a flat surface heat sink.

I had 16 triacs mounted on top of the heat sink, with their leads bent upwards. 4 boards were mounted above triacs.


I don't have any assembled boards right now, but this is how they fit:



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Thanks for the pics. All the other pictures were top view and I couldn't tell if there was anything soldered in the triac holes. I though I was loosing it (more so than normal) and missing something; turns out it was the bottom of the board.

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  • 8 months later...
hello  might you have the .brd file for this dual triac with the snubber circuit handy.  I would like to mill up my self this weekend. I am making a wood stove controller and would like to use triacs to turn things on and off.

I will have few of the following boards available very soon. All boards are 2" x 2".

1. Dual triac board - vertically mounted triacs, can be used with insulated or non-insulated triacs, mounting holes for triac and opto-coupler snubbers, space for heatsinks
2. Quad triac board - vertically or horizontally mounted triacs, can be used with insulated or non-insulated triacs, non-inductive loads or snubberless triacs



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  • 1 month later...

In reference to this board, R8 and R9. I am using these resistors.


It happened in both boards I assembled. Using 110V AC, and using a simple fading dimmer program. In fact, they get hot with just the AC plugged in and no control signal.


Oh shoot, looks like I'm using the wrong resistors, according to your diagram they should be 22K resistors and I'm using 2.2K. Uuups.

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