pine 140 Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 This is kind of "clickable" numeric input from 0 to 9. When i tried to solder the contacts from the PCB it does not "stick" with the tin at all.. are there any tricks or did I used the wrong solder / technique? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobG 1,892 Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Clean it with alcohol and/or use flux. pine 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gordon 229 Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 And/or (and) sand it a bit with fine sand to remove any oxide layer. You also most certainly do not want to use a fine conical tip. Appropriately-sized chisel or bevel comes to mind... pine 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TopHatHacker 25 Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Often on through hole components i like to solder a 2x male header, you can pinch it and it'll grab the board really well. It doesn't look like the pins are the same signal front and back, but this could still work for it. pine 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MattTheGeek 99 Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Flux, Flux, And Flux some moar. pine 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GeekDoc 226 Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Flux, Flux, And Flux some moar. Side note: I really love Tix liquid flux. Anyone know a good source to get more? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TopHatHacker 25 Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 ooo GeekDoc, that stuff isn't cheap http://www.amazon.com/TIX-FLUX-1-2-OZ/d ... 322&sr=8-1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
zeke 693 Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 That's a strange thing to happen. I have a suspicion that your soldering iron doesn't have enough thermal mass to heat up the pads. Please post a photo of your soldering iron. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GeekDoc 226 Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 ooo GeekDoc, that stuff isn't cheaphttp://www.amazon.com/TIX-FLUX-1-2-OZ/d ... 322&sr=8-1 No, it's not. But I like it. It only takes a tiny bit per join, flows into place like alcohol, and cleans up easily. BTW: I hate when it's $8 to ship a tiny $5 item. :x pine 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TopHatHacker 25 Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 i still have the same flux from my last job, no idea the name.. we always filled it from this giant drum with a little pump on it... thats right, we did enough soldering to order a DRUM of flux. gives you a good idea of the scale Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GeekDoc 226 Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 we did enough soldering to order a DRUM of flux :shock: :shock: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pine 140 Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 Thank you everyone for the reply and advice. I rushed to some hardware store after work but since i dont know what its name is in our language, i ended up got a small can of cream like substance that the shopkeeper said is for soldering. Its name, translated, is pine something (yes my username hehe). Reading the flux page on wiki saw something similar pine sth so hope i can flux, flux, and. Flux moar soon Zeke: yes my solder tool is dry battery powered with 6W as far as i remember.. maybe not hot enough? I'll post pic when get back home. Again thank you to all for helping Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gordon 229 Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 I rushed to some hardware store after work but since i dont know what its name is in our language, i ended up got a small can of cream like substance that the shopkeeper said is for soldering. Its name, translated, is pine something (yes my username hehe). Reading the flux page on wiki saw something similar pine sth so hope i can flux, flux, and. Flux moar soon Rosin. I've never seen that in a cream-like form (only solid), if it's really for electric (or even plumbing) soldering, it may very well be corrosive like hell -- wait for someone to wake up and judge by the pictures you post in the meantime . If it's a small enough can (that would make it impractical for say plumbing work), it might be ok, but better safe than sorry. Zeke: yes my solder tool is dry battery powered with 6W as far as i remember.. maybe not hot enough? I'll post pic when get back home. Tip will matter more. You have to heat all of a pad at once, that's why a sharp, pointy tip will not do too much good, and that's why you need something bigger, like a chisel- or bevel-shaped one. pine 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pine 140 Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 Thank you Gordon for the kind advice. The thing is like this and the solder iron and the wire is also in the picture: Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gordon 229 Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 I have no idea what this resin is . Any chance there is some standards classification (DIN8511/DIN EN-29454, ISO9454 or JEDEC J-STD-004) printed on the can somewhere? That could be a start in figuring out what this is. "StarTex PA-01" did not get me too far... As for your tip, it definitely looks like a fine pointy one. You'll have to wiggle and juggle a bit to make it happen -- try melting a bit of a solder on the pad, then use that bit to act as a thermal mass while you add some more solder. There will be a very fine line between "just hot enough to melt some more solder" and "oops, now it's smoking". Use the side of the cone too (but with care!). pine 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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