JWoodrell

hehe attention to detail guys
 
chibiace---------------------------------------------New Zealand
Cubeberg-------------------------------------------USA
JWoodrell-------------------------------------------Missouri, USA
Rubi -------------------------------------------Vienna, Austria
Automate -------------------------------------------USA

hey guys, the boards and components came in for my ?-Launchpad.  I have the backside of the board populated so far, going to finish the front side tonight.


 
I have the LED ?-booster built up, it was simple 2 chips and SMD female headers,  the LED matrix isn't soldered in fully yet cause pin1 isn't marked on these so I'm not sure which way around it goes yet...  stupid cheap Chinese matrix.  interestingly I will have to make a few different versions of the LED board probably because there are at least 2 different pinouts for this size matrix, and I don't know which will be more common and obtainable.  the ones on adafruit are completely different than the ones I have now.  you would think these things would have a standard pinout.
 


 
I am happy with it so far, we'll see how everything works once i check for magic smoke leaks.   I'll post again once i get something to light up (or burn out ;P )

I layed out the initial planning for an 8x8 matrix using the WS2812B LED's Rob posted about recently.  There is a 2.1x5.5 barrel jack to provide power cause 64 LED's will draw a lot more than a USB cable can provide (almost 4 amps at 60ma each).  so I provided a 3.3v regulator to power the launchpad's VCC line.  there is a single decoupling cap shared between every other LED since the power pins are next to each other(pretty close), should still be enough. half of the LEDs are spun 180 degrees to make routing the data lines nicer.
 
I haven't worked with these before so I don't know if a string 64 long will be an issue for the LP...i don't know the timing.
 
right now it just takes P1.0 to the data in of the first LED, and daisy chains the rest.
 
 
thoughts, ideas?
 
Rob said he can get these LEDs for $0.13 each at >100 so its only 8 bucks worth of LEDs... although soldering will be umm difficult without a one pass reflow setup.
 
the tops of the header legs will need to be clipped so they're flush  but I dislike SMD headers.
 
 
 
led_WS2812b.zip

I layed out the initial planning for an 8x8 matrix using the WS2812B LED's Rob posted about recently.  There is a 2.1x5.5 barrel jack to provide power cause 64 LED's will draw a lot more than a USB cable can provide (almost 4 amps at 60ma each).  so I provided a 3.3v regulator to power the launchpad's VCC line.  there is a single decoupling cap shared between every other LED since the power pins are next to each other(pretty close), should still be enough. half of the LEDs are spun 180 degrees to make routing the data lines nicer.
 
I haven't worked with these before so I don't know if a string 64 long will be an issue for the LP...i don't know the timing.
 
right now it just takes P1.0 to the data in of the first LED, and daisy chains the rest.
 
 
thoughts, ideas?
 
Rob said he can get these LEDs for $0.13 each at >100 so its only 8 bucks worth of LEDs... although soldering will be umm difficult without a one pass reflow setup.
 
the tops of the header legs will need to be clipped so they're flush  but I dislike SMD headers.
 
 
 
led_WS2812b.zip

I layed out the initial planning for an 8x8 matrix using the WS2812B LED's Rob posted about recently.  There is a 2.1x5.5 barrel jack to provide power cause 64 LED's will draw a lot more than a USB cable can provide (almost 4 amps at 60ma each).  so I provided a 3.3v regulator to power the launchpad's VCC line.  there is a single decoupling cap shared between every other LED since the power pins are next to each other(pretty close), should still be enough. half of the LEDs are spun 180 degrees to make routing the data lines nicer.
 
I haven't worked with these before so I don't know if a string 64 long will be an issue for the LP...i don't know the timing.
 
right now it just takes P1.0 to the data in of the first LED, and daisy chains the rest.
 
 
thoughts, ideas?
 
Rob said he can get these LEDs for $0.13 each at >100 so its only 8 bucks worth of LEDs... although soldering will be umm difficult without a one pass reflow setup.
 
the tops of the header legs will need to be clipped so they're flush  but I dislike SMD headers.
 
 
 
led_WS2812b.zip

Slow cure or thick CA glue works great and dries clear usually depending on conditions. Accelerator is a must usually in a dark brown little spray bottle.
 
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/RC_PRODUCT_SEARCH.asp?strSearch=Ca+glue
I have used these to secure wires in place after soldering
Every hobby place sells this brand and puts their name sticker on it, but you can recognize it by the bottles, and color of the label/lid
 
Blue label "insta-cure thin" is standard superglue, and flows like alcohol, sets in seconds. Not very useful
Purple "insta-cure plus" is a medium syrup thickness that fills gaps more than flows into them sets in 30 seconds to a minute, usefull to use accelerator
Magenta "maxi-cure" is a THICK gel consistency, stays put sets over several minutes. Accelerator is a must get this if you can
 
The specialty ones, cyan "flexible", and pink "clear rubber" i havent used personally
 
"Foam safe" just means it doesnt outgas like normal CA so less white powder crystals and less smell, but its bond is weaker than normal CA
 
Always buy these, they are high grade hobby glues, cheap knock offs just annoy you and arent consistent
You can find them at any store or online shop that sells RC hobby stuff
 
Buy the 2oz bottles, they last forever and dont dry out if you store them with the lid on tight
Once you get used to using CA like this you will hate it in the stupid little 0.1oz metal tubes you get at the store

My sister sent me this, thought you guys would enjoy this

relevant:
 
http://hamgear.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/resistanceisfutile.gif

My sister sent me this, thought you guys would enjoy this

Not 430, but the video made it look very cool.
 

 
Source code available
http://rurandom.org/justintime/index.php?title=WS2811_%22Water_torture%22
https://github.com/DannyHavenith/ws2811/blob/master/src/water_torture.hpp

Pointers are 16 bits no matter what because the MSP430 uses a 16-bit address bus. 
But the pointer "type" is instructive to the compiler about what size of data underlies that pointer. In the case of these SFRs (special function registers, like P1DIR or P2OUT) they are only 8-bit wide and any operations you perform on them need to be limited to 8 bit data (else you might inadvertently clobber or set a different SFR adjacent to that one).
 
Sent from my Galaxy Note II with Tapatalk
 
 

You can easily build charging into your own pcb. I use the MCP73831 chip. Handles all the nitty gritty of charging for you. It can handle up to 500 ma charging current internally, although you could use it to control a larger external circuit for larger charging currents
 
https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/Batteries/MCP73831T.pdf

P1IES ^= BIT3;
 
should flip flop the bit 3 every time the ISR is run. 

Slow cure or thick CA glue works great and dries clear usually depending on conditions. Accelerator is a must usually in a dark brown little spray bottle.
 
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/RC_PRODUCT_SEARCH.asp?strSearch=Ca+glue
I have used these to secure wires in place after soldering
Every hobby place sells this brand and puts their name sticker on it, but you can recognize it by the bottles, and color of the label/lid
 
Blue label "insta-cure thin" is standard superglue, and flows like alcohol, sets in seconds. Not very useful
Purple "insta-cure plus" is a medium syrup thickness that fills gaps more than flows into them sets in 30 seconds to a minute, usefull to use accelerator
Magenta "maxi-cure" is a THICK gel consistency, stays put sets over several minutes. Accelerator is a must get this if you can
 
The specialty ones, cyan "flexible", and pink "clear rubber" i havent used personally
 
"Foam safe" just means it doesnt outgas like normal CA so less white powder crystals and less smell, but its bond is weaker than normal CA
 
Always buy these, they are high grade hobby glues, cheap knock offs just annoy you and arent consistent
You can find them at any store or online shop that sells RC hobby stuff
 
Buy the 2oz bottles, they last forever and dont dry out if you store them with the lid on tight
Once you get used to using CA like this you will hate it in the stupid little 0.1oz metal tubes you get at the store

The brand said "pricer" molded into the blue part but i couldnt take one out pf the shelf to look at it (my wife told me not to)

I just moved to missouri, and went to the grocery store today. Every shelf outside the frozen section had these little liquid crystal modules as price tags. I don't think theyre rf wireless, cause of power requirements, but theyre atleast infared i think the dark blue section. To update the prices the clerk said they do it automatically, so the infared transmitters have to be in the ceiling so a whole isle can see them or something
 
Cool idea overall

P1IES ^= BIT3;
 
should flip flop the bit 3 every time the ISR is run. 

Cook'n up some USB!  
 
@@JWoodrell - are you just using the Mecrimus code, or is there a better place to start?

here are the Eagle Files, and the assembly instructions for what goes where.  for Cubeberg (and anyone who wants these in the future)

 
and the 2 kits i put together for Cubeberg

usb_0.3c.zip

if you wish to minimize hand wiring & are using veroboad or single sided pcb.....
a pair of 'hc541.  one on the left, one on the right.
BUT the one on the right is upside down; why? 
so that you can do straight-through wiring on the output lines
    (so  left p18 to right p11.    left p17 to right p12.   ..etc..   left p11 to right p18)
 and then select via the output enables on pins 1 and 19.
 
         | o |
8 inputs |   |   8 outputs   |   |
         |   |    3-state    |   |  8 inputs
                             | o |

Any EU 43oh members going to be at Hannover Germany Makerfaire August 3?  TI will have a booth (our first Makerfaire in Europe!) that will host various LaunchPad demos and a demo of Beagle Bone Black. Special guest @@Rei Vilo will be joining us from France to showcase a few of his Energia projects and introduce new users to Energia. 
 
I will do my best to post content from the show including an interview with Rei Vilo and video of the other exhibits. If you are planning to attend, please stop by our booth and say hallo!
 
Video from Bay Area Makerfaire:

Their onboard circuits are built for +- 60 degrees from center on a 1ms - 2ms pulse scale. You can drive them further than that with a slightly wider pulse band (0.7 - 2.3) but you are still limited in rotation, to get "full" control ypull have to gut the electronics package in the servo and drive the motor drivers yourself with the msp430, as well as reading the potentiometer for feedback. You may have to cut out a mechanical stop lug on the output gear but its easy to do

"Specially developed adhesive feet" which translates to we did a search on google, and bought the first ones we found

Since you're going to read a digital value, start considering this. I assume the ADC value is 16 bits (probably better than you're going to get).
Now, since your sensor current is exponential with the pressure you're going to do some maths first. This should be done in integer if at all possible. But in this case, floating point is very attractive. Consider that floating point calculations are very big and slow. The MSP does not have an integer multiplier, so floating point logarithms are going to be huge.
Since we must convert it back to integer values to do sensefull printing, we're going to determine the range successively and then do a conversion to integer. I'll use plain math operations here, which is discouraged in most cases because of the heavy load.
unsigned short current = getADC(); // any form of input float pressure = current2pressure(current * current_factor); // current_factor maps the ADC (voltage) value to the actual current, alternatively integrate this in your conversion function. // Now pressure is in the range of 1e-7 and 1e3 for example (for simplicity I assume pressure will never exceed 1000mbar) signed char exponent = (signed char)log10(pressure); unsigned short pressure_mantissa = (unsigned short)(pressure * exponent * 100); // pressure_mantissa is in the range [100..1000) char result[8]; // remember the string terminator result[0] = (pressure_mantissa / 100) + '0'; // integer arithmetic (999/100 = 9) result[1] = '.'; result[2] = (pressure_mantissa / 10) % 10 + '0'; result[3] = (pressure_mantissa) % 10 + '0'; result[4] = 'e'; if (exponent >= 0) { result[5] = exponent + '0'; result[6] = 0; } else { result[5] = '-'; result[6] = '0' - exponent; // '0' - -1 == '0' + 1 } result[7] = 0;

I have done some industrial control design work in the past and could give a good shot at putting something together for them.  I only have 68 right now, but have an interesting skill set
 
I am officially throwing my name into the hat, for what its worth

 
 


 
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1. RobG
2. GWDeveloper
3. JWoodrell