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Everything posted by chibiace

  1. have you looked at the pricing for the wiha screwdrivers? pretty damn expensive.
  2. what iron are you after? you will need a roll of solder, leaded and with flux in the core will make things easier cheap solder wick for picking up left over solder on the pads and pins cheap solder sucker for picking up big lots of solder or unsoldering thruhole parts cheap flux pen for use on the wick and to solder better onto slightly dirty pads/pins some nice flush sidecutters some tweezers those air rework stations are not too much, i got an atten one from ebay for about 60$ for the iron you want it to be variable temperature even though most the time you will set it on on
  3. there are many tutorials on youtube. it is a fairly useful skill to have.
  4. getting it off without damaging the pads or surrounding components is the hard part. cleaning the pads and putting a new chip on is fairly easy though, looking at http://arduino.cc/en/Main/arduinoBoardLeonardo i think this TQFP Atmega32u4 is the replacement chip https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11181 though this one doesnt look like it has a bootloader, if you had another arduino you could use the arduinoisp sketch to flash it with the leonardo bootloader.
  5. perhaps if he told where it was, infact it would not be the true location but one designed with traps.
  6. Wouldnt happen to have a photo of thier work would u?
  7. Is the output happening? Couldnt u use a transistor to use the batteries on the output
  8. saw this. pretty good deal. not as good as the introductory price of $5 though, makes a pretty good logic analyser none the less.
  9. personally i would only do the autorouter on very basic designs, but then even those it doesnt take too long to manually do it and get a better outcome, it may take abit of practice but you can become quite fast at doing it.
  10. i love the old school gold ic. and those are interestingly coloured leds too. very nice and clean, thumbs up
  11. where to cut traces? edit: ah i think its the big white dots.
  12. i get asked for a justification for shipping outside the US as well as requiring a company email address.
  13. with solder paste i find you need a very small amount, then i push the iron onto each pin, if im using normal solder usually precoat the pads alittle then apply flux pen then put chip down then more flux pen, then same soldering technique. dabbing flux coated desoldering braid on the bridge works abit better then the solder sucker i find, the sucker i have will remove 3 or 4 pins of all their solder.
  14. how many mW is your setup drawing anyway?
  15. you could use 2 batteries ~2.4v and you can always make a circuit to boost it higher. connect the battery to the GND GND VCC pins in the lower right corner of the launchpad. then i think by removing the VCC jumper between the programming section and the breakout section you can program the board with the usb, but dont trust me on that i havent tried it. if your doing any measurement your going to want a good stable supply voltage, a lithium pack and a low dropout regulator with some kind of charging circuit might be the best option. nimh are pretty expensive too.
  16. i have a roll of lead free solder, its great for soldering up clean new boards with new parts. but if its repair/old parts/dirty boards my trusty multicore 60/40 is used ftw. it may be just the flux used but likely the lead helps alot, anyway i think 61/37 is common enough. probably the other stuff is in most solders.
  17. yes im thinking of using my old laptop. but its a shame because my desktop has some nice new screens.
  18. got a picture of your meters, no printed scales?
  19. pin--pot--resistor--amp meter--0v ? pwm pin ? edit: sorry didnt fully read/understand before posting.
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