AMagill

Why bother with the pull-up/pull-down resistors on the switches? You could drop them from your circuit and set: P1OUT |= 0x08; // Pull P1.3 resistor high P1REN = 0x78; // Enable internal resistors for P1.3, P1.4, P1.5, P1.6

The board was sized to fit one of these enclosures. And to be honest, you could trim down the BOM quite a bit with some work. The big ticket items are: $33 - PCB $12 - Li-poly battery $12 - Enclosure $7 - Switch (it's a nice switch, but what was I thinking?) $6 - MSP430F2274 $4 - Battery charger IC The battery power feature turns out to be pretty useless, since in practice you're continually tweaking the script the device is running and almost never run it without USB power. So rip that out and save $17. No battery means no need for a power switch. Save another $7. No enclos

Copied from the November 2010 contest thread, so there's a separate space to discussion. My project is a programmable strobe controller for high speed photography. A device like this is crucial for many types of high-speed photography, as it can orchestrate multiple sensors such as photogates and contact microphones with several outputs, such as a flash trigger and a camera's shutter release, so as to capture a photograph of just the exact right instant with microsecond precision. An example; I connected my device to a small electronic water valve, to my camera's cable release port, and

My project is a programmable strobe controller for high speed photography. A device like this is crucial for many types of high-speed photography, as it can orchestrate multiple sensors such as photogates and contact microphones with several outputs, such as a flash trigger and a camera's shutter release, so as to capture a photograph of just the exact right instant with microsecond precision. An example; I connected my device to a small electronic water valve, to my camera's cable release port, and to a flash. I arranged it so water could flow down from a bottle, through the valve, out a