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Everything posted by jim940

  1. The college sends me emails of jobs they are asked to help fill, and well this one is probably the best one so far ... :roll:
  2. Scotty would have figured it out, and in half the time then his estimate. Jim
  3. That is what I noticed too. But I can still dream. After all a USB key that can run faster and indefinitely read/write, would allow one to have a virtual desktop anywhere they go, not just a few choice applications to be used. Cause VBox+ReactOS is a little slow on a USB flash drive. Jim
  4. So since I typically run a VBox of ReactOS out of a USB, using the protable VBox client. And well USB's do not last too long with that kind of use, and its rather slow. Anyone know if someone will throw together some FRAM onto a USB key? All I need is around 2GB, mind you I realize most FRAM chips currently produced are measured in KBs not even MB's. Or am I outright crazy? Jim
  5. While that is a 17-20$ LCD .... its premade on a PCB and its a low power model. Price wise if TI was going to change FRAM + LCD it could appear as a 43.00 package. Which would not be too bad all things considered. Jim
  6. Cheapest easiest method would be something like this: http://cq.cx/interface.pl Jim
  7. Yes that is true, sorry thinking of my math classes, teacher kept calling the different stages (relative to the degree position along the x-axis) of the sine wave as a "phase". In AC, your phase is caused by the shift of the sine wave relative to each other. But yes, nothing should happen if you touch the neutral, but as you said, and the regulations state, it can be dangerous to think that its "safe" to touch. Jim
  8. Very true, and technically a transformerless AC-DC power supply probably wont cut it safety wise to ground anything as you say. Reading back I over simplified the situation in my post. So thank you for expanding. While I'm no expert at AC, actually I tend to avoid it (for the most part I still have a toroidal transformer I intend to make a power supply with), but not necessarily about your project in specific, just a general FYI before someone gets hurt. Because I keep hearing things like "hot" and "neutral" which are thought to be "safe" or "grounding" wires and it scares the crap out o
  9. Yes, however combining your post about the power supply: Effectively your "GND" and your 235V (230V here), and your "middle ground" wire are all present in a North American home, we just don't use the 230V leg unless its to power our ovens. The 2 wires I'm talking about being live, are effectively in this diagram as N(neutral) and PE (GND) which are typically wired together, and the L1 line give you a nominal 115V/120V. While N/PE is "grounded" using a grounding rod at the home/building, its wrongly assumed to actually be a "ground" in the 3 wire system, or the older 2 wire
  10. The idea that the "hot" and "neutral" wire are only a North American phenomenon. With zero basis in fact. Many products come with polarized at the plug connectors but the cable itself can be plugged backwards in the machine (such as laptop power cords to the AC/DC adapter). Or the tons of non-polarized plugs in both North America but the rest of the world that has the "neutral" wire tied into ground none the less, meaning you might never know what is connected to neutral or the "hot" wire as only in North America are polarized plugs defined as some sort of "standard". Also internationa
  11. Many cell phone USB chargers and laptop chargers today can switch from 120V/230V without a issue. Cause its cheaper to make one set of internals for everything then not nowadays. Check the back of your chargers, you might have one waiting and available already. World wide all companies do is change the plastic plate that faces the wall with the appropriate plug configuration during manufacture in their last operation so it costs no where near as much as running dedicated lines producing different adapters for different markets. Or in the case of laptop AC Adapters is provide you with a differe
  12. Some aspects of it were developed too quickly too soon, such as the blatant over sight of the .160" spacing which supposedly was a "mistake" that got over looked because people, including themselves, rushed the gun, developed shields etc based on Eagle part files that were never checked for spacing, and never produced a PCB for prototype checking before going ahead with the production run. Oversights such as the spacing, or in your case, hardware compatibility without the ease of use aspects, are the ones that can make or break a product. Arduino already had a large enough following during
  13. Fixed it for you. If your going to market a product, especially in such a "big" way, you must realize that market research of the demographics your targeting is generally more important then how good or how bad the product really is. The purpose of Arduino like uC Development boards is well that they are easy (sometimes near brain dead) to work with. Which you mentioned, but hardware is not the "hard" part of development, writing libraries to make the hardware work is. Which is why just about every Arduino compatible shield designer/seller, offers a library that is plug and play into the
  14. But what that has, which your product wont: Showing off a bunch of Arduino footprints to try and validate your little project doesn't work when it is still missing the complete picture of the Arduino compatibles. A good analogy (assuming WINE didn't already exsist) is like you trying to sell 2 desktop PC's with the tower, keyboard, mouse and monitor, except your telling your customers (that would be us) that your Linux box is compatible with your competitors (Microsoft), except "Oh I'm sure you can come up with the API layer to interface your PC to all of your existing Windows sof
  15. Never burned a IC but had some UV erasable PROM's at one point. Still never know how spread out the die was, hence trying to cut it and seeing if it will turn out ok. Jim
  16. Tons of options on Ebay for very cheap LCD's. Jim
  17. There was a discussion if a MSP430G2553 could survive being sliced into a 14 DIP package. And well I like a good challange. So I just had to try and see if it would die or not. Jim
  18. But what I am saying is, we now have a library, that Rob gave us, and the MSGEQ7 chip can be had for as low as $2 so the need to spend 12 times that for a shield is in my opinion a little silly. Other boards, such as Ethernet, wireless etc that would involve more "work" to interface, due to SMD could in a sense be a good reason to go with Arduino shields, but without software support, the premium price of anything labelled "Arduino" wouldn't really make it worth getting a shield when cheap break out boards already exist and are generally smaller then the shield. Jim
  19. Then I really have to ask what is the point? If you can not leverage the software libraries that shield producers make for Arduino by using a Arduino IDE that has your cross linking library for your specific board (such as the chipKIT or the Maple), there is not much advantage of using a Arduino shield over a break out board (which for the most part can be had at a fraction of the cost of the comparable Arduino shield). Since the same amount of effort is required to use both of them. Jim
  20. Makes sense but Rick said it best ... Also these points are needed to truely make it work: This is important, because the shields come as finished PCB's, and if the lines do not match, you cannot run the shield without modifications, then why use a shield in the first place? If it doesn't level shift by default, there will be a lot of dead boards floating around. Even the Arduino Pro's in 3.3V have been killed over time due to this over sight. As Rick said, it needs a Arduino API (Wiring library) to make it work on the Arduino SketchPad otherwise all of the
  21. The problem with the Arduino footprint is its use of a shifted by .06 header system. So you cannot use cheap .100x.100 grid Prototype PCBs easily. Which doesn't matter if your only goal is to use shields or you fabricate a PCB for every design, but can be a drag when you look at the cost of Arduino compatible prototype boards. Jim
  22. I think its working just fine. Jim
  23. http://www.stanford.edu/class/ee281/index.html http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod ... novice.pdf http://hlt.media.mit.edu/wiki/pmwiki.ph ... n.HomePage http://ocw.mit.edu/courses/media-arts-a ... ut06_avr1/ http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/Tutorials/Tutorials http://www.ai.uga.edu/mc/microcontrolle ... tebook.pdf http://www.ccs.neu.edu/course/cs4610/do ... ibrary.pdf Jim
  24. Well I got 2 today, they were version 1.5s. Bluehash, It is almost more of a excitement thing, sure you can use 1.4's, and sure with some F-F jumpers or other quick fix it would work. But where is the fun in that? Jim
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