Jump to content
43oh

multivac

Members
  • Content Count

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2
  1. i know! sometimes the right tool makes a great difference, but solving problems with what you have is a really fun challenge. cheers!
  2. lol I'm not really that patient. i just started soldering, and before i knew it i was too far into this to let it die. it was fun though, must say. thanks for the kind offer btw, but postage would be massive since I live far from the us. also it doesn't look like it, but i used A LOT of wire. i think close to 40 odd meters, but i could be wrong. i actually wanted to build a tower crane too, which would be much easier but alas i used too much wire in this one. also the solder joints are the weakest part of the structure and tend to snap if loaded too much,so steel would really make no se
  3. hehe, too bad i dont have a pic of the wire rolls before. i straightened it by pulling it tight against a fixed metal tube(my workbench`s leg), which gave me a kink free, but slightly curved wire. I made a jig to put the three main booms together, so that went fast. the chassis, roof, and the two tiny thingies up top where made without support, and took some time.
  4. thanks! still needs some refinement. i might post an update if its worth it!
  5. you most likely know this, but if you plan on soldering those with an iron, try to get the pads to stick out of the footprint a bit, so you can heat them with the iron at the same time as the pins. just a little detail i oversaw that made things complicated.
  6. its regular solid core(all copper) electric wire. it was my home`s old mains wiring. i straightened and stripped it before using it.
  7. no problem! there is one more pulley motion that you cant see in the vid, because i had to do some pwm settings and reflash the firmware, and moving the whole thing is not fun. but it will get done, along with some minor touches here and there. cheers!
  8. i`ve used that too. dont know how fast you need/want it to set, but 10 min "hard enough" epoxies are easy to find.
  9. lol. very well then, lets see what happens. edit: looks like you where right
  10. lol, ok. i didn't want to submit this post because of the traffic it could generate, but if you guys are cool with it, i am. again glad you liked it!
  11. lol yeah it was, that's part of the reason for the name. it was a pain to make. though the soldering went pretty fast, getting the rest of the stuff to work required some tweaking. also getting electronic components where i live is an odyssey, wich is why i love ti sample program so much. its not that i dont want to buy chips, but the fact that i just plain cant. as a matter of fact i took my BOM (mostly passives and some tools) to the only place that sells SMD components in resonable quantities here and they sent me away because, and i quote " i wanted too many items and there was too many
  12. Hey guys, so I`ve been working on this project for a while now, and wanted to show it here because you are a cool bunch. if i mess up, the pics are too big, or whatever, im sorry. let me know and ill fix it asap. the title is pretty explanatory so here are some pics of the thing, and the associated mess (if i actually manage to attach pictures correctly) i know there is nothing particularly interesting in this from the microcontroller point of view, but maybe someone will like it. its sort of based on a liebherr lr1750 crawler crane in case anyone is interested. it is controlled wit
  13. hey, im not sure but maybe the direct assignment P1OUT = BIT0; doesn't work because BIT0 is defined as 16 bits. have you tried, for example, removing the two leading zeroes from the define like this #define BIT0 (0x01) and see if it works. just an idea. also you might want to enable interrupts after setting everything, like this: P1IES |= BIT3; // P1.3 Hi/lo edge P1REN |= BIT3; // Enable Pull Up on SW2 (P1.3) P1IFG &= ~BIT3; // P1.3 IFG cleared P1IE |= BIT3; // P1.3 interrupt enabled cheers
  14. hey i just wanted to chime in because im working on a similar project (which i might post here once done) and in the end i went for a led driver from TI because i get much higher efficiency, and (where i live) lower cost. im using the tps6199 chip. its only good for one color but its pwm- dimmable, and there are no losses in resistors. it requires some design though. just an option to consider! btw, hope you appreciate my username!
×
×
  • Create New...