Fred

So many ways to do the same thing. All good. Let's not get into a argument on coding style though! Anyone want to write an obfuscated version? You know the sort of thing. All crammed onto one line. Saves you 2 bytes and 10 microseconds but is bordering on unreadable and unmaintainable.

Thanks for this. Just what I needed. My trimmed down version of your TX routine: void TX(char *tx_message) { unsigned int i=0; //Define end of string loop int while(tx_message[i]!=0 && i < 50) { while(!(IFG2 & UCA0TXIFG)); // Wait until UART is ready UCA0TXBUF = (int)tx_message[i++]; // write character to TX buffer } } No copying of the string buffer. Checking if the UART is ready before sending rather than after. Combining a few lines (incrementing i, casting and sending). Combining the length check with the while loop. (I didn't bother with the error output.

Interesting info about moisture and temperature.

I've used another of their modules in a Netduino-based reverse geocache project. I think it was an earlier version of their

Some really useful stuff. I started playing around with the same (or very similar) IMU but didn't get as far before getting sidetracked on other stuff. When I get back to it I'll definitely take a look at your code as a starting point. Unless I decide that the STM32F3 discovery kit (with onboard IMU components and ridiculously low price) is a better fit.

Thanks for the offer gwdeveloper, but I've still got no BLE devices to connect it to. I jumped on this thread before realising BLE wasn't backwards compatible with standard Bluetooth.

I went for a board from chriscircuits.com. I thought about making my own as it's basically some opto isolators and a couple of Pololu A4988s but the quality and price were good and he's gone to all the trouble of sourcing the correct awkward connectors to make it a drop-in replacement for the shockingly bad Moshiboard. I'm very happy with it so far.

Yes - the blue and white thing is the laser. A 40W CO2 laser can cut through things like acrylic, fabric, leather and wood. Ideal for making enclosures and just general stuff like that. It can also engrave most things (except metal). It's not really any good for PCBs - but the CNC mill on the right can accurately mill the copper off a board and then drill and cut it out.

OK - I finally got round to creating my new workspace. It's still teeny compared to yyrkoon's, but it's an improvement for me. Strong enough to stand on. As much storage as I could manage, and an e-stop that kills all mains power if something's going badly wrong. Here it is with my little CNC mill and new laser. The electronics stuff is up on the shelves at the moment, and the 3D printer in still in the house. I checked with my wife that "in theory if there was a laser cutter in the garage and you wouldn't see it then that might be ok". It was ordered within 15 minutes and delivered within

They're fairly readily available - mostly as torches. No motors as standard but they're large enough that fitting a servo shouldn't be too hard. I've got a Stormtrooper alarm clock one intended as the base for my nephew's clock, and a Darth Vader that may one day use his light saber display the results of our source code builds at work. I've also used one for my son's nightlight (including a MSP430 based PIR) as documented here - http://www.instructables.com/id/Motion-sensing-Lego-figure-nightlight/

Nice. I planning on doing a similar project for my nephew. Although by the time I get round to it he'll probably be able to tell the time. I'm going to use one of those 8" high Lego figures and have it sit up or lie down depending on the time.

I was thinking of doing something similar for a while but disappointed that I've been beaten to it before I got round to it. Most "business card" PCBs are so hugely thick and clunky and miss the point. If you're going to go for that sort of form factor then go for it and do it properly - like the T4F one. I CNC mill my boards so a well aligned cutout for a cap sensing G2452 shouldn't be too much of a problem. I also think that you could probably mount a CR2012 battery pretty much inside the PCB too, but you need to make a custom battery holder..

The Launchpad library is designed to be with the LP on top. As RobG (sho knows ar more than me) says you can mirror it if required. Any other questions about the LP library you can ask over on the relevant thread to avoid cluttering up this one. http://forum.stellarisiti.com/topic/322-eagle-library-for-stellaris-launchpad/

Congratulations, stick! I must get round to fixing the issues reported in my Launchpad library to see if I can earn an Eagle award too.

Well, considering I'm outside, the US, Android and not BLE - I'm out!

Inspired by the "Post a pic of your home work bench" thread, I'm working on building a nice workspace setup in my garage. I started typing some details here but thought I'd better stick in that thread instead... http://forum.43oh.com/topic/2896-post-a-pic-of-your-home-work-bench-get-a/?p=27311

OK guys, this thread has inspired me to build a proper workspace in my garage - well the small room at the back of my garage where there's a boiler, a washing machine and a sink. My CNC mill currently sits next to that sink with my 3D printer and electronics stuff in the house. It needs to be tough enough for my small CNC mill (and maybe a lathe in the future). It needs enough space for tools, electronics stuff, my 3D printer and hopefully soon a laser cutter. My wife said she'd leave if I got a laser cutter, but as her main objection was all the "crap" in the house I figure I'll be OK onc

This was my first attempt at an Eagle part. The dimension is supposed to be so you can see the space it would take up on the larger board. I'll tweak it when I'm back from the holiday visiting. Or if anyone else wants to, go ahead.

I did think about it for a little while. ;-)

Nice to see others into the cnc stuff. It's very addictive once you get started! I've got a small cnc mill (for PCBs initially) and a 3d printer that I won in a competition. My wife has threatened to leave me if I get a laser cutter. I can't decide between improving a cheap Chinese 40w machine or building a 2.x one from scratch via buildlog.net.

- and you could probably solder the TEST pin back on with a fairly steady hand.

I was wondering if the ICDI chip was reusable the when I first saw the LP. (I've never checked but I assume it's possible to blow programming fuses on a Stellaris if required.) It could be tempting to carefully remove the two LM4Fs from one of the boards and use them in your own projects - especially as the LM4F doesn't seem to be available for purchase yet. For those who bought LaunchPads at the introductory price it might even be cheaper than the 2 LM4Fs alone!

Android in the UK, so I'm out. Which is a shame as I'm currently working on a Stellaris project that includes Bluetooth. (I just checked and none of my devices are BLE anyway. I wasn't aware that it wasn't backwards compatible with standard Bluetooth.)

I've had no time to work on my project so won't make this contest. And I've already won one of these kits so wouldn't want to be greedy.

A nice project that uses the MSP430 to hack kids toys so they're easier to use for disabled kids. http://ow.ly/fNHG7 (From @FarnellNews twitter feed.)