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rebeltaz

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Everything posted by rebeltaz

  1. So, after buying the book "Getting Started with the MSP430 Launchpad" (topic http://forum.43oh.com/topic/3891-any-experience-with-international-versions-of-books/ ), it turns out @@rockets4kids is correct - it is a basic introduction using Energia. Since I have already taught myself (with the help of you good folks, of course ) programming using C and CCS, another programming language is the last thing I need to learn. However, I am curious... Energia seems to be a semi-BASIC style language with C-style formatting. What, if any, are the limitations of Energia over C/CCS?
  2. I have to check them out. Thanks.
  3. Yeah, it does seem easy to use. I actually hand draw schematics to start with and then redraw them in Eagle CAD for a more "professional" look when I get the circuit right. Been doing that for decades! I'm old-school. Fritzing just looked like a fun little program to play with for a few weeks :-) On a (related) note, how about an (easy) way to create photo-realistic renderings of populated circuit boards? I read a way to do it with Sketchup and Eagle plugins, but I never could get that to work...
  4. I just found Fritzing and decided to fritz around with it. I found the Launchpad part for Fritzing, but I was wondering if anyone has or has seen just the MSP430 IC? 20-pin DIP MSP430Gxxxx... Thanks.
  5. meh... I couldn't find a preview or download of it.. so I went ahead and bought it. I think the 50% off price ended today. When it gets here, I'll let y'all know. Maybe it won't be so bad....
  6. lol... I'm glad you did post. Sounds like a good book, and at $9, I figured I had better go ahead and get a copy of that one too. Thanks.
  7. D'oh.. I was almost excited for a minute. That's "Getting Started With the MSP430 Launchpad" instead of "MSP430 Microcontroller Basics". That does look like a good book, though. I may have to get that one too! Thanks...
  8. Yeah, I'll post a photo tomorrow. I was afraid of that...
  9. ummm.... I know I should know this, but... ??? lol :?
  10. I am trying to build a clock based on (an outdated MSP430 version of) this: http://www.sharebrained.com/chronulator/ The meters required are either 50uA or 100uA. I have a couple of sets of meters that I would like to use, but they seem to be of the wrong rating - i.e. I can't achieve full scale deflection Well, that's not exactly true. By eliminating (quite by accident originally) a resistor, the meters do go full scale and approximate the correct time, but they appear to move more on the lower end than they do on the higher end. What I mean by that is if the scale is divided into 12 equal
  11. I have read the book "MSP430 Microcontroller Basics" by John Davies and I would like to get a hardcopy of this fantastic (IMHO) book, but I simply cannot afford the $47 for a new copy from Amazon. I found an International Version on AbeBooks for $19 shipped. The description says that the ISBN and the cover may be different but the text is the same. I was just wondering if anyone has any experience with this type of book? Or if anyone has a used copy that they would be willing to sell for under $20, I'd much rather keep my cash local... Thanks guys...
  12. Nope.. no components. I didn't want to solder to the pins because I wanted it to still be modular. Besides... I was bored I will be posting more info on the clock soon in a new thread. But... the voltage is really easy. I found an article online using a 555 timer as part of a boost circuit to create the 170v needed to power the tubes from a 9v battery...
  13. ZIF socket for my other Lauchpad is next on my list. Is your's soldered in place of the original socket or plugged into the original socket?
  14. I guess I am just old school. On the last project I built - a MSP-based nixie clock - I drew the board patterns out on a piece of paper by hand, transferred the patterns to the copper clad with a sharpie and cut the traces out with a dremel tool and a hobby knife. Sure.. it may take more time, but I have the satisfaction of knowing that I actually did it by hand. @@chibiace - I like the board. I made one of those myself, just with a longer cable. I also connected another cable that terminates in a 20-pin socket that I can plug into a breadboard to take the place of jumper wires from the h
  15. I'm just curious. Almost all projects I see based on the MSP seem to be built around the Lauchpad, as opposed to just designing the circuit around the IC itself. Is this indeed common practice? And if yes, might I ask why? Personally, I have always preferred to design circuits around discreet components instead of around a development board. I guess that's just me, though?
  16. That is freaking awesome! I used to get some of the best stuff (robots and computers mostly) at thrift stores, but lately they have raised prices to dang near retail! So I hardly ever go anymore :-( And it's forbidden to remove anything from our local dump, so I feel like that Indian in that old commercial every time I see the useful "junk" (to me anyway) that gets thrown away for ever because of bureaucracy...
  17. rebeltaz

    reset pin

    I like that... Cool. Thanks. No Ground connection on your programming header?
  18. rebeltaz

    reset pin

    OK, yeah I saw that schematic, but again... not much in the way of WHY (bad habit my dad taught me years ago when I was apprecticing electronics under him as a kid - always asky WHY ) So in essence, unless I am doing ICP or using a reset button, I shouldn't need the resistor and cap. OK, cool. Thanks. I accidentally used a 0.1 cap instead of a 0.01 cap and (with the jumper removed) the LauchPad couldn't reset the board until I removed the cap. D'oh! So, yeah... they mean it So, with the pull up resistor, I tie the LauchPad's reset line to the junction of the 47K and the uPC reset
  19. rebeltaz

    reset pin

    I know that I should have probably asked this a long time ago, but... On my past projects, I have simply tied the reset pin directly to the 3.3v supply line. I am not sure where I saw that, or if I just decided that on my own. I haven't had a problem with that yet. Reading the Family User's Guide today, I find that the suggested reset circuit is a 47K resistor to the positive (3.3v) supply and a .001 to .01uf capacitor to ground. I have been reading all night and most source on the net (here included) say that the capacitor is optional but that the resistor is essential. Why? What harm
  20. Oh... well why didn't you say so!? I guess I am off to read https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linear_interpolation ... lol
  21. I tried this on a 2452 tonight and I still get a temperature that is anywhere between 7 to 13 degrees hotter than the surrounding air. And the chip feels as cool as a cucumber... I am just going to reuse the code that I used on my Coffee Pot Fish Tank and use an external temperature sensor, since that seems to read much closer to right. I was re-going over that code tonight and, just for my own curiosity, can anyone explain how this formula is able to display the temperature in one degree steps? I would think that, since the loop breaks once the raw analog input is greater than any one
  22. Crap! I used ! instead of ~, didn't I. I have spent way too much time on this code! Thank you so much! <shuffles off in shame>
  23. OK.. I don't understand this. Is P1OUT |= BITx and P1OUT &= ~BITx the proper way to set or clear a single bit while leaving the rest of the bits alone? I know I have done this in other code and it worked fine. If I comment out P1OUT |= HR10_ENABLE; __delay_cycles(50); P1OUT &= !HR10_ENABLE; (where HR10_ENABLE is defined as BIT0) pins 6 and 7 are pulled high like they should be. Why is that command reseting the pull-ups?
  24. re: P1DIR = ~(BIT6 + BIT7); I did do that that way in my last code and the compiler kind of complained about it, so I did it the other way this time.. Any reason why you prefer that over the other? I do call ConfigClocks first. I will recheck oscillator fault. I guess I can put a test routine and have it call FaultRoutine to show me if that failed...
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