t0mpr1c3

This is my first time designing a PCB for MSP430. I really like the NRF24L01+ booster pack but I would like something smaller to use for remote temperature sensors. With that in mind I've designed a 24.5 x 50 mm PCB (2 on a 5x5 cm prototype) featuring MSP430G2553 and an adapter for a 8-pin NRF24L01+ module using essentially the same pinout, with the intention of using the Spirilis library. There's a jack socket to connect a 1-wire sensor (e.g. DS18B20), a 4-pin header to connect a temperature/humidity sensor (SHT22 or similar), a programming header that gives serial access, and 3 other general purpose I/O pins. You could connect a thermistor or LM35 to the jack socket by leaving off the 4.7K pullup resistor on the data pin. Power can be supplied by a CR2032 coin cell or via a mini USB and LDO voltage regulator.
 
The repository is https://github.com/t0mpr1c3/wisenode although I haven't put up any documentation yet, just the Eagle files. I'm really very new to circuit board design so please if you can see any improvements do leave a comment for me. Thanks!

The PCBs arrived from Elecrow a couple of days ago and I populated the first one. This may be the first time I have successfully soldered a TSSOP.
 

 
This one is configured with a 3-pin SIP header for a 1-wire sensor instead of a 3.5mm jack socket. The 4 pin header will be used for output, so I left off R6 and C6 and substituted 0 ohms for R7.
 
I went backwards and forwards over the orientation of the NRF24L01+ header and eventually decided to leave it so that with a 2x4 female pin header the radio module would extend back over the board. This allows for greater compactness but renders the push button inaccessible. One way around that is to use a right angle female header. Another way is to solder the push button on the back (an advantage of using a through hole button) so long as the battery pack pack is not in the way.
 
Tonight I will try to get a "hello world" blink light demo going to test the microcontroller, and if all is well I will attempt radio communication - at long last!

The PCBs arrived from Elecrow a couple of days ago and I populated the first one. This may be the first time I have successfully soldered a TSSOP.
 

 
This one is configured with a 3-pin SIP header for a 1-wire sensor instead of a 3.5mm jack socket. The 4 pin header will be used for output, so I left off R6 and C6 and substituted 0 ohms for R7.
 
I went backwards and forwards over the orientation of the NRF24L01+ header and eventually decided to leave it so that with a 2x4 female pin header the radio module would extend back over the board. This allows for greater compactness but renders the push button inaccessible. One way around that is to use a right angle female header. Another way is to solder the push button on the back (an advantage of using a through hole button) so long as the battery pack pack is not in the way.
 
Tonight I will try to get a "hello world" blink light demo going to test the microcontroller, and if all is well I will attempt radio communication - at long last!

Did you hand-solder those chips?
That's impressive none the less. I haven't' done anything with my extra PCB's. (Was thinking to maybe make a geeky Christmas wreath). 

Here's a couple of LP v1.4's that I built from the legacy PCBs kindly donated by @@LariSan. Soldering the LEDs was a bit tricky as the 0402 pads are closely spaced and I only had 0805 components. In fact the soldering generally wouldn't win any awards, but even so I am pretty happy with how they turned out. Thanks BluHash for distributing these through the 43oh store!
 

 
The DIY Launchpads are middle and right. Yeah, the short ones with the orange tactile switches and green green LEDs.
 
Blog post: http://smokedprojects.blogspot.com/2013/12/homemade-msp430-launchpads.html

Replace the antenna with a wire dipole.  This will take some experimentation, but it's something you can do in an hour or so.
 
First, get two copper wires or rods that are 4cm long (each).  
 
Second, remove the antenna from your board.  It is probably a trace that you can scratch-off with a razor blade.  
 
Third, solder one wire to the feed point of the old antenna, and another to the ground plane closest to the feed point.  If you have a dremel with the grinder bit, use it on low-speed to take-off the solder mask.  Otherwise, you can scrape with a razor or use fine-grit sandpaper.
 
Four, build a dipole antenna 1cm away from your ground plane by extending the wires straight-out (in parallel) and then bending them into 180-degrees from each other.  It should look something like this image below, with 1cm feed and 6cm = lambda/2 (thanks, google images).

 
Five, it's not over yet.  Very likely, there is some capacitive coupling happening between your PCB and this antenna.  It is making the resonant frequency lower than 2450 MHz.  It is also reducing the impedance of the antenna from 74 Ohm to less... although I'm sort-of counting on that because the NRF module is undoubtedly tuned to 50 Ohms.  Start trimming the wires.  Trim both the same each iteration (try 2mm).  Now test the range with a normal NRF board and take notes.  At some point, the range will be longest, and this is where you're getting the best resonance.
 
Final note: position your wire dipole in a vertical orientation.  This will give it toroidal radiation about the Z axis, which will be the best for earthly pursuits.

Funnily enough, a container used for storing credit cards is the right size for a credit card sized computer.
 
Just temporary because the thermal insulation is undesirable.
 
 

If you are jiving you are thriving! That's what my gerontologist says.
 
To remember that far back you must still have some of your marbles.

@@t0mpr1c3 Might use this for the store image. Thanks!
If you need more, let me know.

Here's a couple of LP v1.4's that I built from the legacy PCBs kindly donated by @@LariSan. Soldering the LEDs was a bit tricky as the 0402 pads are closely spaced and I only had 0805 components. In fact the soldering generally wouldn't win any awards, but even so I am pretty happy with how they turned out. Thanks BluHash for distributing these through the 43oh store!
 

 
The DIY Launchpads are middle and right. Yeah, the short ones with the orange tactile switches and green green LEDs.
 
Blog post: http://smokedprojects.blogspot.com/2013/12/homemade-msp430-launchpads.html

But of course!

Mail them and let them know. Also, let them know you are a member of the 43oh forums.

Great deal! Except I just put in an order for 2 10x10's yesterday and somehow missed that  :!!!:

What it's going to look like. Hopefully I'll get them from Elecrow in time to do something for the current project contest!
 

Worth mentioning that Amazon are also offering 30% off any book up to $10

Selected items only - but I just won a $10 voucher by registering a new account.  :thumbup:

Shipping promotion from Rapid (UK distributor) until 2 Dec. Free delivery on any order over 10 GBP ex VAT. Coupon NOV10.
 
Twitter #10daygiveaway

Trossen Robotics
 
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Sale starts Friday 11/29 and ends Monday 12/02 at midnight.

Shipping promotion from Rapid (UK distributor) until 2 Dec. Free delivery on any order over 10 GBP ex VAT. Coupon NOV10.
 
Twitter #10daygiveaway

This sounds like a good excuse to get my wireless thermostat project off the ground using those NFR24L01+ backpacks! It's been months since I got them, but now I actually need the heating on.

I didn't actually see this contest until I had already posted on the forum. My project is exceedingly lame. Yes this is as far as I have got with ARM microcontrollers: I can successfully plug in a Tiva Launchpad, and put it inside a pumpkin. The immediate rationale for doing so was trying out a USB adapter that I got as a freebie. Oh, and to entertain the kids for 5 seconds or so. 
 

 
http://smokedprojects.blogspot.com/2013/10/jack-o-launchpad.html

I recently bought a Panavise and it is terrific! The other prizes look great too. Thanks for organizing B#!

I didn't actually see this contest until I had already posted on the forum. My project is exceedingly lame. Yes this is as far as I have got with ARM microcontrollers: I can successfully plug in a Tiva Launchpad, and put it inside a pumpkin. The immediate rationale for doing so was trying out a USB adapter that I got as a freebie. Oh, and to entertain the kids for 5 seconds or so. 
 

 
http://smokedprojects.blogspot.com/2013/10/jack-o-launchpad.html

I didn't actually see this contest until I had already posted on the forum. My project is exceedingly lame. Yes this is as far as I have got with ARM microcontrollers: I can successfully plug in a Tiva Launchpad, and put it inside a pumpkin. The immediate rationale for doing so was trying out a USB adapter that I got as a freebie. Oh, and to entertain the kids for 5 seconds or so. 
 

 
http://smokedprojects.blogspot.com/2013/10/jack-o-launchpad.html

I didn't actually see this contest until I had already posted on the forum. My project is exceedingly lame. Yes this is as far as I have got with ARM microcontrollers: I can successfully plug in a Tiva Launchpad, and put it inside a pumpkin. The immediate rationale for doing so was trying out a USB adapter that I got as a freebie. Oh, and to entertain the kids for 5 seconds or so. 
 

 
http://smokedprojects.blogspot.com/2013/10/jack-o-launchpad.html