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pbirkel

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    pbirkel got a reaction from viperspd in [S]IV-18 VFD Clock Booster Pack   
    Compare to http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fas ... dGbnszs%3d (and similar) at Mouser. This 49 mA part is dimensioned as 6 mm Dia. x 16 mm L. ($0.86 @, BTW)
     
    Compare to http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bou ... u9ljAt0%3d at Mouser, a 24 mA part dimensioned as 0.45 in L (~11 mm in L). ($1.26 @, BTW)
  2. Like
    pbirkel reacted to cubeberg in [S]IV-18 VFD Clock Booster Pack   
    Ok - so here's a start on assembly instructions. I'll try to update this specific post with additional info so it doesn't get too fragmented.
     
    ***This board requires > 100 mA of current, so it must be connected to a USB port that provides > 100 mA***
     
    Step 1 - Solder crystal to the LP. Run test code from TI to make sure it's running.
    msp430g2xx3_LFxtal_nmi.c
    Step 2 - Solder SMD components to board first. It's awfully difficult to do this after the larger components (caps, etc) are added. Pay attention to the orientation of the chips.

    Step 3 - Solder in everything else except the DS18B20, Transistor and Female Header. Go ahead and solder the headers to connect to the BP.
    ***Pay special attention to the orientation of the schottky***
    Step 6 - with a small piece of wire (enough that you can take the BP off and on without pulling the wire out), connect TP1 on the booster pack (our 5v source) to the 5v+ hole on the booster pack.
    Step 5 - Turn the Pots all the way down. If possible, Connect the GND from the LP to the GND of the booster pack so you're only running power to the boost circuit. Test the output voltage of the boost circuit in the location shown in the image (banded side of the schottky). You should be reading around 30V (20v is the minimum to light the tube). If components start to get hot or you're not measuring 30V - stop and get help.

    Step 6 - If everything is fine so far, and no components are warm, solder in the remaining components. Place the full booster on the LP and power up. Make sure everything remains cool for a minute or two.
    Step 7 - Solder the header on the tube board. Make sure you put the header in on the side of the board that says "43oh.com". Note the text that says "header goes in here".
    **will upload a picture when I get a new set of boards**
    Step 8 - Solder the tube. ***Be extremely careful about this step - if you don't solder correctly - it's a huge pain to fix, maybe impossible.***
    Find the three pins on the front of the display that aren't connected to anything inside of the tube. These three pins go into the holes labeled as "nc" and within the white box on the silk-screen.
    I used Lady Ada's eagle part for this, she has a great section on getting the tube in correctly here. You'll have to scroll about 2/3 of the way down the page to the section on assembling the tube board.

    Step 9 - Program your board. Get the latest code from my GitHub repository. https://github.com/cubeberg/Clock/tree/ ... ockProject
    This is written for Code Composer Studio.
    Step 10 - Check to make sure the VFD driver chip is working. Using a multimeter - check the voltages on the header pins. **I'll fill in more information here in a bit***
  3. Like
    pbirkel reacted to cubeberg in [S]IV-18 VFD Clock Booster Pack   
    Actually - now that I look at it - it might be the size of the inductor. The color codes are the same, but the physical size is completely different. Here's a side-by-side comparison:

     
    If the inductor isn't large enough and is saturating, I'm guessing that's leading to the overheating. When I get my kit - I'll try swapping the inductor.
  4. Like
    pbirkel reacted to cubeberg in [Group Buy-7]IV-18 VFD Clock - $20   
    The tube itself is a little over 4.5", or 6" with the leads and 3/4" high. Looks like a small flat-rate box is 8 5/8" long and 1 5/8" high. should be just fine, even for two tubes. The rest of the components will take up hardly any room.
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