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Everything posted by gordon

  1. Switch the grid unit to cm, draw dimension lines, switch back to mils. This is already done with the booster pack package, you only have to deal with mils when placing your components. Just stay inside the dimensions. If this is not the answer, by now I have no idea what the question actually is .
  2. It also starts somewhat above the origin. IIRC that's because that's how the usual 100mil grid works out best on the board.
  3. I did them with Eagle 5 -- still have not switched, so I don't know about conversion issues. The size is definitely under 50mm on all sides (Seeed is pretty anal about that). Where the dimension starts doesn't really matter as long as the sides it encloses is smaller than 50mm on both sides (which it is).
  4. Get all of them . You'll learn technique and grow confident over time on the big ones, and smaller ones come naturally later. You may also want to consider some sort of magnification, a desk stand magnifier or a head band one -- even x2-x4 helps a lot, if you need it. A x10 or so jeweler's loupe is very nice for verification (but not for actual soldering work, obviously), and of course good lighting and flux . Other than that, experiment .
  5. You may want to study the information mentioned here: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=449#p4473 (and eventially the whole topic as well).
  6. FYI, the 50x50mm one is this size because 50x50mm happens to be the cheapest PCB one can order from at least two popular manufacturers (Seeed and iTead), so it only makes sense to have a size that can be used as a guide to design the cheapest bang for the buck.
  7. The reason your program still works after removing explicit loop (while(1) or for(;) is because CCS adds an infinite loop after the main.[/code] It must be noted that this behaviour is very highly likely to be compiler-dependent and should not ever be relied upon. GCC halts the CPU if execution falls off main(), for example.
  8. I have always thought this to be... strange, to put it this way, but then, since I am registered, it does not matter to me . Other sites where I need a file or three from (mostly bumped into by the grace of Google) I register, grab the stuff, never to return. I will never be a community there just as these people won't be a community here, so what you are left with is basically stuffing in the board database. What good is that for?
  9. Nah. Solder ain't stupid. Solder flows where it needs to be. Flux, hot iron, flux, good tip, flux, faith, flux, little practice on scrap stuff perhaps, and some more flux.
  10. Starting point: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1537&p=10434
  11. You can use my build script (attached to this post) (as a starting point) on two conditions: - I do not wish to provide any kind of support whatsoever regarding this script. It works and works well, has been for quite a long time now, and I am pretty tired of listening to statements to the contrary. - I do not wish to be associated with this script in any way, shape or form (otherwise #1 is bound to happen) I am also completely uninterested in any enhancements, bug fixes, colored output, error handling, and whatever else you can think of. Basically, you grab it, do whatever you wan
  12. I could use it if it already has 2x53 devices in N
  13. 10R will result in 300mA through your LED, which is starting to get OK :). Some visible red glow is not necessarily bad. I am guessing the LED's peak wavelength is in the 850nm-ish range, that may very well mean that when overdriven, it will emit some light even in the visible red (750-780nm-ish) range (if you look at a webcam or some of these cheap-ish CCD cameras that have "night vision mode", you will probably see them doing this too). CIR applications usually operate in the 940nm-ish wavelength, which doesn't mean others won't work, just that the range and sensitivity will decrease. I
  14. You can put multiple LEDs in parallel like in the first schematic. Edit: just to make it clear, the result is a third transistor switching the two other stages, not simply just stages in parallel. Also, I just noticed that you have (what looks to be) a 100R on the collector of your transistor. It will limit the LED current to 30mA, which is not enough for range. In a remote control application, the LEDs are typically driven near their peak ratings (they can work under these conditions for the brief period of time the LED is actually on during the transmission of a code), which gen
  15. What transistor have you used? Can it carry enough current? Can your power supply supply enough current (fast enough)? Are you sure you are switching the transistor on fully (2K seems a bit high, whatever transistor that is)? Seriously, just give this method a try, also read oPossum's stuff at http://forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?p=22714 (many good things about how and why this works):
  16. There was this guy on IRC yesterday whose questions started all this goodness . He left with a couple of his questions unanswered due to temporal inactivity. I only assume he came from here, so if you are reading this, try this one for solving your range/directionality/power problems. The board is part TH part SMD (but huge parts and lots of clearance so you can assemble it even if you have no SMD-soldering experience) and is designed to be glued on top of a 2xAA battery holder, not unlike this one: The crystal is completely optional (and I doubt it would work properly in that sp
  17. OK, so since there seem to be some HP nuts (pun intended, you know what I'm talking about *g*), especially the kind not afraid of the iron, let me share a link you may very well be interested in: WP 34S Repurposing Project Have fun .
  18. It works, for certain defintions of "works". The TUSB is very picky and tends to trip over every time a butterfly in Argentina (Denmark, if you are in Argentina) flaps its wings, also the driver seems to leave a lot to be desired. Your best bet is not using it, and simply connecting the RX/TX pins of the LP target side to some proper USB<->UART bridge (like FTDI or whatnot).
  19. gordon

    Fan controller

    Not mine but our PhirePhly's, bumped into it over at DP: intelligent fan controller. The video has a nice smooth intro to PID controls for those not yet in the know .
  20. HP 42S. Now only if I actually owned one and was able to ditch the emulator... The 35s is just a sorry-ass replacement .
  21. ... or (I guess) you could use MSPDebug (the Cygwin version), which can be told what device to program, based on their unique USB serial numbers. Dunno how it would integrate with CCS, though, but here's your start.
  22. Nope, mspdebug is not for "simple serial connection" .
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