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Everything posted by cubeberg

  1. The second example should work then.
  2. @@ansh - absolutely, but I'll need to know what you're actually trying to do. If you're trying to take data in on RX(1) and transmit it to your computer, just swap your Serial and Serial1 references in the above code. #define LED RED_LED char ch;void setup(){ Serial.begin(9600); // put your setup code here, to run once: } void loop(){ Serial.write('c'); delay(1000); // put your main code here, to run repeatedly: } RECEIVER CC3200 :- #define LED RED_LED char c;void setup(){ Serial.begin(9600); Serial1.begin(9600); pinMode(LED,OUTPUT); pinMode(GREEN_LED,INPUT);} void loop(
  3. It still depends on your physical setup - but you're reading from the primary serial port and writing that input to Serial1. If you're expecting to see this on your computer via USB then you've got the classes backwards as Serial writes to the PC. Based on what I'm seeing - you're actually waiting for input from your computer and writing to the MSP430 instead of the other way around.
  4. @@Rei Vilo - that one should be a piece of cake - just an update to boards.txt Unless there is something odd about flashing the device.
  5. It depends a bit on who you're dealing with and quantity (and wow - 150 in 2h is pretty good depending on your code size). I did a run of a couple hundred devices using a DIP chip and ended up programming them myself with a gang programmer. I had to compile the code in a specific format (which I'm sure you could either figure out with Energia, or import into CCS and compile) - but because of sourcing problems with the chips - I had to buy them in the US anyway (import problems, manufacturer didn't have a good source for the chips, etc.), so it was easier for me to program and just ship them
  6. From what I know - there is an issue with the license for the bluetooth stack currently used - it's not open source compatible. They're working on solutions but that's the first roadblock.
  7. @@ansh - can you send a picture or description of your setup (just in case it's hardware)? Which serial port are you trying to use? In my setup I'm using Serial1 to listen to input from the MSP430 and Serial to provide feedback to my PC (if attached). Since it's on the same pin as one of the LEDs, I did have to set the pin as INPUT (something that wasn't done in the init for some reason). pinMode(GREEN_LED,INPUT); Also - make sure you've got the GND pins of the two boards connected, and that you've got a power supply big enough to run the two. There are a lot of other considerations
  8. I know @@simpleavr had an FFT project for the 430g as well http://www.simpleavr.com/msp430-projects/8-bit-fft-spectrum-analyzer
  9. There are serial examples in Energia that work fine for the CC3200 and MSP430 - I've got a setup doing exactly that for my IoT sensors. The Communication examples are a good start. Is there any part in particular you're struggling with?
  10. @@MSPLife as @@enl says - It's generally not a good idea to run LEDs directly off of MCU pins, although you'll notice it done on the MSP430G Launchpad (although other LPs do actually use transistors). However - that's only one LED per pin. Doing anything more than that and you're risking burning out pins. I did create a project that ran a charlieplexed matrix that only lit one LED at a time - but a common-anode or cathode matrix would probably be too much - you're better off with external drivers. Shift Registers (595) and darlington-arrays (ULN280x) work great and are both in TI's parts c
  11. TI has a reference design page for the BBB which uses a USB CC2531EMK. http://www.ti.com/tool/CC2531EM-IOT-HOME-GATEWAY-RD#buy There is also a wiki pager on 6LoWPAN which references a USB CC2531EMK http://processors.wiki.ti.com/index.php/Contiki-6LOWPAN-BBB#CC2531EMK' Must be what they're referring to - assuming the technology is compatible with the new sensortag.
  12. There is mention of a beaglebone gateway on that page as well. I found some info on the IBM Bluemix site that uses BTLE 4.0 - but the sensortag page mentions 6lowpan and Zigbee (they all go to the same estore product though).
  13. Woah!!! That would be awesome! I'm not sure if the new BTLE sensor is any different - but my main concern with the old design was the need to pair the device whenever you wanted a reading - so if you wanted constant readings the only option was to drain the battery. Would love to see what the code looks like to keep power usage down.
  14. @@CorB - hacking a commercial sensor - with RadioShack closing, I found a cheap one on eBay. It was originally $15 but ended up being $5 after it got scratched in the mail because of bad packaging and the seller did a partial refund. I have a anemometer/weathervane as well that I need to work on as well.
  15. Started getting my rain sensor set up - just in time for some rain the day before yesterday. I accidentally left the transmit speed set really low - so it killed the battery. Going to let it recharge and fix the interval, and then the bugs. Right now I'm dealing with a noisy reed switch + some sort of bug on the interrupt. I can tell IF it rained, but not how much ATM.
  16. So do you ever get to the IP code, or does it keep printing periods? It might be worth adding in some extra print statements for testing. The other option would be to check for a certain number of waits for connection - and try the WiFi.begin statement again if it passes a threshold.
  17. Just to clarify - does it stop printing periods after a while? What code follows the WL_CONNECTED code? Do you have the IP address check? while (WiFi.localIP() == INADDR_NONE) { // print dots while we wait for an ip addresss Serial.print("."); delay(300); }
  18. Try holding down the reset button until it has been "uploading" for a second or two. Tried on mine locally - flashes the device just fine. Hopefully that's enough for it to start the bootloader.
  19. Well that sucks - glad I got a decent stock when I did.
  20. I have a bunch of Tayda's stacking headers. http://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/stackable-headers/stackable-header-10-pins-2-54mm.html They're the blade-type pins that some people don't like rather than round. I don't have my 432 LP on hand to compare.
  21. Looks nice! Any idea if it'll hold up to sun as well? I have some cheap dollar-store "tupperware" with a seal - but I seriously doubt it'll hold up in the sun. BTW - got my first single-battery node up and running this weekend! Works like a champ. Just need to modify my code to take the battery voltage from a pin so I can monitor drain. Already started converting a radioshack rain sensor to a custom board - it'll be powered by one of these as well. Anybody have experience with inexpensive waterproofing? I saw some suggestions of clear nailpolish and clear polyurethane spray. Ne
  22. Here we go - found the kickstarter campaign - https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/802159142/nuimo-seamless-smart-home-interface?ref=category
  23. I saw a kickstarter or indiegogo campaign with some sort of hardware that used a gesture controller and an LED matrix for feedback. Not sure how complex the implementation would be - but it could be an interesting interface method to hardware without an LCD. Gesture-based passwords for a security system, gesture control of a media system (next track, previous track, increase volume), etc.
  24. Google is your friend Was just about to hop in and point this out. I've used those options to generate extra files needed for the MSP-GANG.
  25. @@ultrabizz That error is normal - the new code should start working once you reset the device. Have you tried that?
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