cubeberg

What's the dimension of the ring once assembled? Wondering if I can print something on my 3D printer to hold it (not that I couldn't make it in pieces.

You mentioned something to drive the ring - maybe a separate small board with a DS3231, spot for a 2553 and an LDO for 3.6v? Or do you need a bigger proc like the 5529?

What's the possibility of getting clock PCBs as well? I'd be in for a set of the LEDs and PCBs if that's possible. Bit of a soft-spot for clocks

Left capacitor is marked 102, right capacitor is marked 104. Hope that helps!

@@elpaso - sorry for the delay - here are high-resolution images of the board, front and back. The blue resistors are the larger value resistors for the red LEDs, the brown ones are for the green LEDs. I believe I included different colors with yours, but this way you know where they go The larger capacitor goes on the right, smaller on the left. I'll check the markings so that you know which is which.

@@elpaso - No instructions yet unfortunately. Schematic/board files are in this post - http://forum.43oh.com/topic/4580-christmas-pcb/?p=41538 - assuming you're an eagle user (I can post images of the files if you aren't). For the LEDs - ground is always down, resistors are typically right next to the LED. Larger value resistors are for the red LEDs, smaller for the green. The 47k is for the reset pull-up, and there's also a large value resistor for the white - 1k. gcc - I won't be much help there unfortunately. I haven't gotten into gcc quite yet (although @@t0mpr1c3's suggestions

I'd love to print some of these off - I say post the STLs! I've seen the bottom - love the lid though - that's pretty cool looking.

Yes - @@bluehash extended it (realized the thread title hadn't been updated) - post I'm referring to: http://forum.43oh.com/topic/4741-need-input-on-potm-extend-entries-from-stellarisiti/?p=42587 - definitely need to update this thread title.

My entry - 43oh christmas ornament. Project thread here: http://forum.43oh.com/topic/4580-christmas-pcb/?p=41218

That's impressive! Definitely no temperature compensation in my code Yep - that's right! Me neither - maybe he'll make some MSP430-based LED shades

Not sure if he's on the forums or not - but my secret santa was Garrett Mace! A string of WS2811 LEDs and a ChronoDot! I'll have to look at supporting the ChronoDot in my VFD clock library - see if it's any more stable than the LP's crystal. Thanks Garrett!

Looks great @@will!

Woah - did you have to create that manually, or is there some sort of export option? Unfortunately forgot the -gcc setting needed by the captouch library

Thanks @@bluehash!

Attaching files for Code Composer! CapTouch_Music_Full.zip

@@gwdeveloper - That's too bad! I think @@bluehash is out of tubes right now, but should be getting in more (they take a while to ship from Russia). It wouldn't be too difficult to update the library to skip one of the blinking decimals for now. I've never had good luck with the temperature sensor unfortunately - I'm wondering if the electronics on the board are putting off some heat or possibly an issue with the one-wire library. I need to do some testing to see if I can clean that up - the response I get from the assembly function contains junk data sometimes. There's a possibility th

Fantastic! Are you just seeing the "Startup" message? If so - that means your crystal is your only hurdle at that point. Post pics of the crystal as well if you continue to have trouble. Worst case - you could pick up a 32.768 crystal in a through-hole package - there's a footprint for it on the board.

@KatiePier Now that's totally doable Add some small SMD or Cap Touch buttons and a battery on the back. Might have to do something like that for the 43oh badge I keep putting off...

@@dred - couple of things to check out - did you get the crystal soldered in? Is the red LED blinking every 30 seconds? That will tell you if the crystal is working correctly. Do you have the 5v hooked up to the correct pad on the booster? If you've got a multimeter - check to see what voltage you're getting on either side of the diode. You should see 5v on one side and 30-50v on the other. Also - if you see anything glowing red inside of the tube at any time - pull it out. It means you've got the tube soldered in wrong. If you don't have any luck there - send me a nice clear pi

Definitely a more modern looking design. I kind of dislike having to scroll down to see the blog, but the blog layout is much better - overall it looks like a significant improvement.

I've got a couple of kits that I could mail (US only - for timing purposes) - anybody interested? Especially anybody interested in getting it working in GCC especially since my code is CCS.

Awesome - sounds like you're on the right track then!

Video as promised!

It worked! It's seriously awesome - I'll record a video now!

Looks like there's a chance it might come today - it left the sorting facility just after midnight - should hopefully make it into today's mail sorting.