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Everything posted by cubeberg

  1. cubeberg

    Renesas, STM kits

    I've got three dev kits that I'd be willing to trade. All three are brand-new with everything that was originally in the box. I'd prefer a trade of some sort - Booster Packs, anything with LEDs, etc. If you don't really have anything to trade, but you'd use the kits and are willing to pay shipping - let me know. I know some of these boards were only free in the US - if you're outside of the US and would like one - I'd be willing to ship international as well - might just take me a bit to figure out how Renesas RX62N Renesas RL78/G13 STM32-F4 Discovery I was one of the ones to confirm this forum would be a good idea - figured I'd better pony up and post ;-) ***Boards all taken***
  2. I've got a lot more work for this project - but I wanted to post what I have so far in case anyone else is interested in the code. I started with the Arduino library at https://github.com/davedarko/GBPrinter- which looks like it's based on an earlier AVR project - http://hackaday.com/2010/10/08/game-boy-printer-usb-cable-and-software/ The library itself need some serious help to make this a "real" library. Right now - pins are hardcoded, the examples don't work completely, among other things. So - if you'd like to get this working for yourself - here's what you need to do: Download the library from Github and put it in your libraries folder. Crack open GBPrinter.h and change delayMs to 60 instead of 20 Connect GND, and the IN/OUT/Clock pins from the printer to your Launchpad For more information, hookup, etc - you can find a lot on google - but I found this page very helpful - https://milesburton.com/Gameboy_Printer_with_Arduino. There is a download at the bottom of the page for a word doc. From there - the example "GBPrinter" will work for a single "block" print (16x20 pixels). Open the serial monitor and send a single "h". The serial setup is a bit odd - so here is a slightly modified version where you see a bit of debugging on startup. GBPrinter.ino I've got a few more sketches - one including the 43oh logo - but apparently Google Drive didn't sync them, so I'll have to grab those tonight and post them. Dave Darko's site has some image conversion functionality - but I can't get the applet to work. There is also a PHP site on the github repo that does something as well. I wrote a c# converter that I'll be cleaning up and posting later. My goal end-project is an internet-connected printer - probably something along the lines of an inspirational quote/image-of-the-day for people who visit my desk at work. And here are some pics as proof
  3. Sorry - busy weekend/work week Enabling pull up/down resistors should be sufficient for that problem - it's recommended for low-power optimization anyway. Looks like @NurseBob has done an excellent job answering everything else FWIW - I like Elecrow over Seeed, etc. I've always had good luck with them - and they have good customer service for the few times I've had any issues.
  4. The MSP430G family will run down to 1.8v actually - but the CPU speed you can run at is reduced. Here's a good discussion from E2E - https://e2e.ti.com/support/microcontrollers/msp430/f/166/t/599159?MSP430G2553-MSP430G2553-Clock-Speed Assuming you've got the space on your board - I'd at least break unused pins out to SMD test points - you never know when you're going to need an extra pin or two. If there's any chance you may want to debug while connected to an external battery - I'd probably suggest at least adding an extra GND pin so you have VCC/GND for battery and TST/RST/GND for the LP debugger. Otherwise - break it out into a different header. Again, unless you're low on board space.
  5. I'd suggest taking a look at the launchpad schematic - there are probably a couple different places you can find it - but here's one - http://www.ti.com/lit/ug/slau318g/slau318g.pdf (Page 15) Pay attention to filter caps on the power lines (10uf and 100nf), as well as the reset pin (I usually just add the the 47k pull-up - although I think the cap is recommended as it prevents problems with power supplies that are slow to start up). For programming - you just need GND, TST and RST - I usually break out a 4 pin header - VCC/TST/RST/GND - for programming/debugging. Pull all of the jumpers from the Launchpad, pull out the chip, and connect GND/TST/RST from the emulator side of the LP and you can program/debug the board. I've connected jumpers from the boosterpack headers - but the 47k pull-up on the launchpad can cause problems (I've had a few aggravated troubleshooting sessions caused by that). Connecting from the emulator side should avoid that. FWIW - unless you need 9v for a peripheral - you're going to put off a lot of heat dropping 9v -> 3v, and 9v batteries drain fairly quickly. You could, however, run straight off of 2xAA or 2xAAA batteries for quite some time with an MSP430, depending on what else is in your circuit. I've even run an MSP430 with an LED and wireless transmitter for months off of a CR2032 by staying in sleep mode as much as possible and using the transmitter infrequently.
  6. The DeviceHive python examples for the Pi are keeping my CPU at ~98% I couldn't get their dashboard tool connected either. I may mess around with Node-Red and see if that's not too hard. I used that before with my old IoT project and was able to get it to work pretty well.
  7. @hmjswt - you could easily say that about a lot of things (C vs Assembly, roll your own database, etc.) I'm a web developer - but trying to figure out everything from hardware to reporting can kill a project pretty quickly. Like @zeke - I've got a lot of unfinished projects - usually because I get bored trying to get over obstacles in the project. Since DeviceHive supports MQTT - it should be pretty easy to port a project over to something else at a later point in a project. I was able to get a simple POC working with a Raspberry Pi on DeviceHive. Not too bad - it'll be a good place to start working on MQTT for some of the hardware I've got sitting around. I'm not so sure about deploying DeviceHive though - there are a lot of components to install - although they do have docker instructions.
  8. I'm going to have to check this out! I was wondering if something open source would pop up after Phant died. I killed off my IoT devices once I realized that wasn't going anywhere.
  9. Buy the IV-18 VFD Clock Kit at the 43oh Store. Here is my first booster pack. I created a prototype version using RobG's SMD ProtoPad. You can find the project thread here. Git Repository .Net app to set the time via serial - available on this post http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m263zsmdeh0 The idea is that this is usable as just a booster, but the buttons could be broken off and the whole project could be placed into a case (I'm working on a laser-cut design, but I'll probably wait until I get the boards first). All parts with the exception of the MC34063, Max6921 and Tube can be ordered @ TaydaElectronics - I was working to keep the cost very low. The tubes can be purchased in quantity for < $5 each on eBay. It might be worth organizing a group buy if there's enough interest. Any feature requests? I was thinking about adding a DS18B20 for temperature as well. Should I add the option to use the DIP MC34063 as well? Parts: MC34063AD (SOIC) Max6921AWI (SOIC) http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=RLB0914-680KLvirtualkey65210000virtualkey652-RLB0914-680KL - 68uH inductor (1) - switched to Mouser part http://www.taydaelectronics.com/10uf-100v-105c-radial-electrolytic-capacitor-6x11mm.html - 10uF 100v Capacitor (x4) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/100uf-35v-105c-radial-electrolytic-capacitor-6x11mm.html - 100uF Capacitor (1) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-390pf-50v-ceramic-disc-capacitor-pkg-of-10.html - 390pF capacitor (1) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n5819-schottky-barrier-diode-1a-40v.html - 1N5819 Schottky (1) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/40-pin-2-54-mm-single-row-female-pin-header.html - 2x10 Female Header (1) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-resistor-180-ohm-1-4w-5-carbon-film-pkg-of-10.html - 180 ohm resistor (1) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-resistor-22k-ohm-1-4w-5-carbon-film-pkg-of-10.html - 22K resistor (1) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-resistor-1k-ohm-1-4w-5-carbon-film-pkg-of-10.html - 1K resistor (1) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/trimmers/6mm-top-adjustment/10k-ohm-trimpot-variable-resistor-6mm.html - 10K Trimpot (2) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-resistor-22-ohm-1-4w-5-carbon-film-pkg-of-10.html - 22 ohm resistor (1) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/tact-switch/tact-switch-6x6mm-7-5mm-through-hole-spst-no.html - 6mm Tact Switch (3) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/pin-headers/2x40-pin-2-54-mm-right-angle-double-row-pin-header.html - 2x10 Right Angle male header (1) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/buzzers/piezo-electronic-tone-buzzer-alarm-3-28v-1.html - Piezo Buzzer (1 - Optional) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-resistor-16k-ohm-1-4w-5-carbon-film-pkg-of-10.html - 16k Resistor (1) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/t-transistors/2n-series/2n3904-npn-general-propose-transistor.html - 2n3904 or similar (1 - Optional) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/10-x-resistor-4-7k-4k7-ohm-1-4w-5-carbon-film-pkg-of-10.html - 4.7K resistor (1) http://www.taydaelectronics.com/ds18b20-1-wire-digital-temperature-sensor-ic-dallas.html - DS18B20 (1 - Optional) The required parts from Tayda come to about $1 (about $2 more for the piezo and temp sensor). The other parts are readily available as samples. ***Edit 8/20 - added Temperature sensor and some packaging issues - ready to send out *** ***Edit 8/20 #2 - Added components for Piezo Buzzer, removed 90 degree traces, added code to post*** ***Edit 9/2 - Noticed footprint for DS18B20 on first version of the board is backwards. Will update the board*** ***Update 9/10 - Boards arrived and first tests work!*** ***Update 9/16 - Uploaded V2.1.0 software*** ***Update 9/17 - Corrected DS18B20 pinout, new board and schematic and images*** ***Update 10/13 - Added git repository*** ***Update 11/14 - switched inductor to mouser part*** ***Attached binary output from Code Composer - might be possible to program your device if you don't use CCS*** ***Update 3/26 - Github updated - new accepts serial time configuration*** TubeClock_Code_V2.1.0.zip TubeClock1.1_EagleFiles.zip IV-18-ClockProject_Output.zip V1.2Gerbers.zip UpdatedMainBoard_Eagle.zip
  10. cubeberg

    [S]IV-18 VFD Clock Booster Pack

    I unfortunately don't have any more stock. @bluehash - do you have any stock left? I'll take them off your hands if you do.
  11. cubeberg

    Build thread - 3 Axis pen plotter

    I ran across this Instructable the other day on how to make a tiny laser engraver from a couple of CD-Roms. I figured my wife wouldn't be too keen on lasers, and the glasses I would need are expensive - so I decided to start with a Pen Plotter. Maybe I'll work my way up to a laser I'm using TI's DRV8834 low-voltage stepper driver - the same one used by a TI employee in their internal boosterpack challenge. For now, I'm using a small breakout board, based on the boosterpack design. Using the chip honestly couldn't be easier thankfully. Right now - I've got two stages built and I'm working on the third. Running some test patterns - using some "Poster Putty" in place of the unfinished Z-axis. I'm using an old PC power supply for the 5v needed for the steppers - works great, although it's almost as large as the project itself For now - the code is pretty rudimentary - but it's a good start. Current X/Y/Z coordinates are recorded, and it supports moving to any X/Y coordinate - although it doesn't calculate a perfect line between the points. The Z axis is handled first since it's simply used for starting/stopping a line - no purpose in moving the Z axis at the same time as X/Y. From there - X/Y are incremented/decremented by 1 until it hits the desired value. So moving from 0,0 to 15,30 would result in a 45 degree line from 0,0 to 15,15, and a straight line from 15,15 to 15,30. I'm fighting with some issues with the platform being level - the pen isn't exactly forgiving - a variation of a single MM is enough to stop a line. I might work in some Z-axis compensation, but hopefully I won't have to. I've also run into some situations where the steppers skip - I think that might be a lubrication issue. Hopefully it isn't an issue with the pen dragging on the paper. Since I've got a decent base with the X/Y coordinates - I'm hoping to apply some of the calculations found in LCD libraries for drawing lines and curves - should be pretty simple to apply the same logic.
  12. cubeberg


    I think you'll be surprised about how many software guys you'll find around here I'm a web developer
  13. So I've been horribly quiet in the forums lately - mostly because of a lack of free time. Since I don't have a dedicated work space - having to break down and set up tools, projects, etc. severely limits how much time I have on projects. Thankfully - I'm getting a new house with my own room for projects as well as a garage! I'm hoping this will mean more time to complete projects. Most of my components are in cardboard boxes and plastic tubs - well organized but not exactly what I'd like for a nicely organized full workspace. I know we've had threads for showing off your workspace - but I'd love to hear about what you like best about your workspaces or anything you think might be helpful since I haven't had a dedicated space before. So - any suggestions on the following? I'm definitely not afraid of making my own furniture as well. Organization (small components to WIP projects) Types of work spaces (large open table, bench with shelves, etc.) Sites/videos with information that might be helpful (I'm thinking Adam Savage or Ben Heck videos for instance) Tools (not soldering iron or oscilloscope, more like magnifying glass, monitor holders, etc.) That one thing that you find invaluable for your workspace. Where to buy affordable stuff (I'm in the US, but non-US places might be good for other forum members) I've heard Harbor Freight is bad for tools - but they seem to have pretty cheap component organization options, and I've got one near by. And I'm trying to talk the wife into a hidden bookcase as the entrance. Fingers crossed! If I pull that one off - I'll have to post a video tour!
  14. cubeberg

    MSP430 Nixie Clock

    @@RobG - I'd say all 4, otherwise the 1st tube isn't treated for cathode poisoning as much as the other tubes.
  15. cubeberg

    MSP430 Nixie Clock

    @@RobG - I'd have to agree on the piezo - this type of clock is probably too bright for an area where you'd want an alarm. I have a spot for one on my VFD clock but only populated it for my first test device. I have three on my desk at work, one with a buzzer that beeps on startup - I should honestly pull the thing off of the board.
  16. cubeberg

    MSP430 Nixie Clock

    @@RobG - hah - that's what I was going to try to add
  17. cubeberg

    MSP430G2553 low power or send to sleep

    Well, I know there's a way to go into low power in Energia - might be a good idea to post in the Energia forum. Attach Interrupt would take care of the button push part and Sleep looks like it would work for low power/timing portion - but I don't use Energia a lot outside of ARM chips.
  18. cubeberg

    MSP430G2553 low power or send to sleep

    I'd suggest downloading the code examples from the product page - http://www.ti.com/product/MSP430G2553/toolssoftware (download link - http://www.ti.com/lit/zip/slac485) There are a lot of examples depending on what particular aspect you're looking for. Here are a couple of examples that might be helpful: msp430g2xx3_P1_04.c - toggle LED when button pushed - using LPM4 msp430g2xx3_lpm3_vlo.c - LPM3 - LED toggled every 6 seconds
  19. I'll admit I haven't finished the training on TI-RTOS (next plan after I'm done with this course) - but the concepts introduced in the course are clarifying some of the settings I was seeing with TI-RTOS (Like WTF is StackSize used for). So I can see this helping my understanding of using another RTOS.
  20. cubeberg

    Low-power water level alarm

    I believe so - assuming your connections are close enough. You do need to consider corrosion/oxidation as a potential issue. One alternative would be to use capacitance as well instead of a straight on/off - assuming you don't wake up too frequently - you should get good battery life out of that as well.
  21. @@spirilis you're an animal - saw that you'd finished lab 3! I'm about 1/2 of the way through section 2 - there are a LOT of videos to watch and content to read. Are you going through both, or just doing one or the other?
  22. cubeberg

    MSP430 Nixie Clock

    @@RobG - make sure to post back when it's available. I've been meaning to pick one up for my younger brother for a while now.
  23. cubeberg

    Analog comparator

    @@Clavier - sorry - you're right - I hadn't used Comparator_A - looks like I need to do some more reading in the family guide.
  24. cubeberg

    Analog comparator

    I poked around - not an interrupt based on threshold. You can certainly set up a regular ADC conversion based on a reference pin (the 2553 does support VREF) and write a small amount of code to address the need. There are some 430's that can trigger an ADC conversion on a timer (http://processors.wiki.ti.com/index.php/MSP430_-_Triggering_ADC_Conversion_Using_Timer_Module) that might simplify things a bit.
  25. cubeberg

    TI CC3200 Relay on Pin 39 not working

    @@william67 - that's definitely odd - I'm seeing some overlap between other pins too - if the labels are correct.