GeoNomad

I would go with a real proximity detector if the object might not be moving, which is a requirement of all motion detectors. The Sharp GP2Y0A21YK and similar proximity detector are easy to interface and you can set the range you want to detect. They are available on ebay at a pretty reasonable price. A couple of PDF spec sheets to get you going: GP2Y0A21YK and GP20A02YK. Peter

You could always use a LitroEnergy nuclear powered cell http://factlets.info/Glow.html 12-20 years and enough current to do things. But not available (yet), I think.

Ham radio is a great hobby and a wonderful community. You will meet fine hams all over the world, on the radio, on the internet, and if you travel, in person. Start by meeting the local hams in the nearest club(s). Look for the various hamfests that might be near you. There are small regional ones and large divisional ones, and then there is Dayton. http://www.arrl.org/hamfests-and-conventions-calendar And most important, turn on the radio and LISTEN. Listen to HF, listen to 2 meters, listen to some morse code. Find your niche, maybe you will get hooked on digital transmissions

Yes, that is what I meant. I am camping in France right now, so my replies are not proofread... :roll:

To fit the controller into a completely waterproof case, I use the back that comes with the LED back. That has sufficient extra room for everything with any of the low profile connectors. I also sealed the top of the LED back cover that has holes in it for sound. That makes a water resistant - i.e. open at the bottom but not at the top enclosure so I can run a cable out the bottom holes for USB power on the bus plug. Good for making very long time lapses. It has the added advantage of not steaming up when the temperature changes drastically, so I also use it on my helmet when flying.

Funny that I came across your post this morning. I was just thinking about Poly-Paks yesterday. I saw a pile of small poly-bags and it triggered that ancient and very satisfying memory. I am sure I still have lots of parts that came from them back in the 60s - especially in the resistor drawers and places like that. I have no desire to end my long addiction to buying parts, which only goes back 50 years now, but I would like to know how to remember what I have already bought. I can't tell you the number of times I have ordered something and a few days later come across one in a dra

Thanks!

I have the watch from the first release, way back when. I seem to recall reading that later versions could be reprogrammed wirelessly without disassembly. Did I dream it? I can't seem to find any reference to that now. And the current TI text confusingly says it "may be disassembled" to reprogram it. Can someone clarify this for me? Thanks, Peter

There is a link on my web page to the supplier. Yes, it fits in the waterproof back with the small connector, using the wider backs that comes with the LCD display. The one pictured works with the open back after a little Dremel work. In fact, I just built a second one with a crystal for accurate time resolution and lower power by setting the ports to output. Peter

Another shameless plug. http://benlo.com/msp430/ More projects soon, I hope.

The GoPro HD Hero camera does not have a remote shutter input, but it does have an interface bus on the back designed for an add-on LCD display and other accessories not yet available. I thought it would be interesting to interface an MSP430 to the camera to automate the taking of photos for time-lapse photography, and to add a remote control and motion detection. The easiest way to do this turned out to be the PWR/MODE button which is brought to the connector on the back. The camera has a one-button mode which will take a photo or start a video recording when the camera is powered on.

Well, I'm not all that worried about the contest, but I would like to get feedback from those more knowledgeable than me. Should that be in a different thread from the contest entry? Peter

The GoPro HD Hero camera does not have a remote shutter input, but it does have an interface bus on the back designed for an add-on LCD display and other accessories not yet available. I thought it would be interesting to interface an MSP430 to the camera to automate the taking of photos for time-lapse photography, and to add a remote control and motion detection. The easiest way to do this turned out to be the PWR/MODE button which is brought to the connector on the back. The camera has a one-button mode which will take a photo or start a video recording when the camera is powered on.