bluehash

What are you doing right now..?

108 posts in this topic

@@bluehash The horizontal bar is simply an indicator for volume level so no scrolling involved. The channel list is scrollable though, ether via the navigator button or via remote control.

 

I am using CCS since I need a decent debugger and also because I am familiar with the Eclipse IDE. I have a full CCS licence, the project compiles to over 70K of code - as I understand this is not possible when using the free licence?

 

What about a post that starts off with a description of event driven programming and how I have implemented it in my UI library? Maybe that can be helpful for those who are new to that concept.

 

A description sounds good.  :thumbsu:

 

License should not matter.

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Slowly cleaning up my basement in preparation for closing out our storage unit and finally reclaiming my electronics workbench :D

Still !? Only been 2-3 years now hasn't it

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Still !? Only been 2-3 years now hasn't it

I had it in order for a short 9 months or so at one point... :-D

But actually yeah, about 2-3 years ago we had a nasty incident in the house and I've had a storage unit albatross on my back the entire time.

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I had it in order for a short 9 months or so at one point... :-D

But actually yeah, about 2-3 years ago we had a nasty incident in the house and I've had a storage unit albatross on my back the entire time.

Glad for you, that you're finaly getting it back.

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This weekend I put together my second quad. My earlier quad was a 500mm one. It is pretty powerful and big. I still haven't got good at flying the thing. Multiple crashes were hurting my pocket.

 

Recently more quad classes are becoming popular especially the 250mm class. These are smaller, durable and parts are cheaper too. They can also be put together quickly.

 

Total cost without the radio came to $186. I got the Emax 250 kit from MassiveRC.

 

WP_20150823_18_49_00_Pro.jpg

 

Test flight was successful!

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Finally turned a corner and got my basement workspace mostly in order-

post-15991-0-42690100-1440381785_thumb.jpg

 

Got all my books and crap *off* the workspace desk and up on those new shelves... a new lounge chair on the right (bookshelves & chair are cheap ikea stuff), now I need to tidy up the rest, get my reflow skillet organized and ready to roll and all I need now is to reacquaint myself with all my unfinished projects and MCUs!!

 

I have been mostly incognito to the electronics/MCU world for the better part of the year... mostly due to this, just too much crap to get done at home!

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Finally turned a corner and got my basement workspace mostly in order-

attachicon.gif20150823_215315.jpg

 

Got all my books and crap *off* the workspace desk and up on those new shelves... a new lounge chair on the right (bookshelves & chair are cheap ikea stuff), now I need to tidy up the rest, get my reflow skillet organized and ready to roll and all I need now is to reacquaint myself with all my unfinished projects and MCUs!!

 

I have been mostly incognito to the electronics/MCU world for the better part of the year... mostly due to this, just too much crap to get done at home!

Looks nice spirillis!

Is that skillet for cooking PCBs?

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@@bluehash - If I am interested in learning more about these, where is a good place to start?

RCGroups multirotor sub-forum.

Reddit's /r/multirotor

Also Oscar Liang's site.

I'd suggest going for a kit and put it together yourself( like th eone I linked above). I went big the first time around and regret it due to the number of crashes. You will learn slowly.

 

You need the following extra things:

  • Radio RX/TX - something like Turnigy. If you can afford them- Futaba or Taranis.
  • LiPo batteries.
  • LiPo charger.
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Looks nice spirillis!

Is that skillet for cooking PCBs?

Yup!  Using @@yyrkoon and wulfman's reflow control triac PCB from a couple years back.  Got it (the control PCB) mounted up on a slat of wood that I intend to screw into some studs on the wall just above the desk.

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Needed a new board vise that would sit flat. The old linemaster is not quite the thing for some jobs, and is kinda a pain to crank, though it is real solid and heavy.

 

This was out of the scrap bin in about an hour. 1/2" square tube, 1/4" rod, a spring from the junk pile, and a thumbscrew. Mots time consuming part was tapping the holes. No tools more advanced than a handheld drill and a hand tap and hand die (for the end of the rod). There is a nut inside the tube to jam with the nut on the rod end. I was trying to figure how to mill a tapered grip on a chunk of ABS from the scrap bucket, then I said to myself: "self, it is only going to be a taper edge to just grip the top of the board and hold it down. Why not give more room by using flat head (countersink) screws". So I did.

 

Rubber baby buggy bumpers on the bottom for gription.

 

Edit: fixing really embarrassing typos. Ok, I'm not really embarrassed... and adding pic holding board

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post-30450-0-31236600-1440460293_thumb.png

post-30450-0-50124100-1440461184_thumb.png

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Yup!  Using @@yyrkoon and wulfman's reflow control triac PCB from a couple years back.  Got it (the control PCB) mounted up on a slat of wood that I intend to screw into some studs on the wall just above the desk.

 Ah ha ! More wonderful wall art :)

 

Hows that board been working out for your by the way ? Honestly, we haven't used ours in quite a while. Wulf bought a commercial grade infrared reflow oven that has questionable firmware . . . that wulf want to try and create yet another PCB for, and attempt to control it via some sort of launchpad connected to a BBB . . . web interface and all . . .  lol he has way too much confidence in my coding ability ;) But actually it does sound like a pretty cool project.

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Making my first PCB using KiCAD, switching over from ZenitPCB. Next I am going make a prototype board with a LQFP-64 (TM4C123), will push my homemade PCB "printer" to its limits (its inherent resolution is 1200dpi).

 

post-45966-0-90741200-1440682314_thumb.jpg

 

PCB "printer" in action - a blu-ray laser (100mW), two steppers controlled by MSP430 and main rendering program written i C# for Windows.

 

post-45966-0-58470500-1440682542_thumb.jpg

 

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First PCB authored in KiCad - laminator is no good, and I am having some problems with dust. I am using Riston film - maybe better to use presensitized boards...

 

 

 

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Some nice results, @@terjeio. I use presensitized boards and would recommend them. One less step to get wrong.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

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LQFP-64, 0.25mm tracks - PCB outline is around 0.1mm. Now, if I only can figure out a good way to align layers then prototyping double sided boards should be within reach.

 

Since KiCAD is open source it should be possible add code to plot directly to the board - after a quick glance through the sources this seems doable...

 

post-45966-0-12341500-1440840504_thumb.jpg

 

To build the "printer" one needs a CNC mill/router to make the parts (and drill the pcbs), so maybe it is a bit too demanding to post as a project?

 

 

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This looks awesome @@terjeio. I really like diy CNC machines and would like to see your machine.

I've machined a couple of 2 sided pcb's and had good luck re-aligning the 2nd side.

When I layout the pcb I put in mounting holes for a small fixture I made. Then I bolt the pcb

to the fixture run the 1st side, pull the fixture out flip the boad and reload the fixture. It works

pretty well.

post-36-0-65198800-1440867576_thumb.jpg

1st side

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2nd side through holes line up pretty well!

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finished!

post-36-0-52180500-1440867822_thumb.jpg

heres a shot of my robot

thanks for posting your project, you've got me thinking about putting a laser on my printer.

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@@timotet - nice result from isolation milling.

 

The first machine I made is a fairly standard CNC mill, ballscrews, linear rails & steppers, using Mach3 and Vectric Cut2D & VCarve in the toolchain. The design was inspired by Neo7CNCs machines. This is my main workhorse and vital for my projects. It is mainly used for milling aluminium parts and drilling/milling PCBs.

 

post-45966-0-43820100-1440879614_thumb.jpg

 

The PCB printer was inspired by a youtube video "PCB Laserprinter Version 2" by "Hobby Elektronik" - he has not published any design details so I had to start from the information provided in the video.

 

The reason for doing this was that toner transfer did not work for me, and I think isolation milling not well suited for SMD components (IMO). I could have used my main mill by adding a laser to it - but it has a fairly heavy gantry/Z-assembly so not well suited for high speed laser "printing".

 

The "printer" is designed for PCBs up to Eurocard size (100 x 160 mm) and has a moving table mounted on a THK KR33A actuator. The laser sledge is from an old 3.5" disc drive - I thought I needed to control the focus so I choose that because the assemby contains a small stepper. This is not needed in practice - once the focus it set I have found there is no need to adjust it.

 

I am using GT2 belt for the X-axis, combined with 17 teeth pulleys and microstepping gives it a mechanical resolution of 1196 dpi - very close to the standard 1200 dpi.

 

The software renders bmp images directly (no conversion to G-code) so it is "pixel perfect". The PCB outline on the board above is only 5 pixels wide - a tad over 0.1mm, not bad I think. It is my first attempt at double sided printing - this was not my initial design goal so I need to add some way of achieving layer alignment. Since the table has well defined inside edges I think I can utilize that. What I will try is to mill the board slightly oversized so it aligns perfectly with the home position of the laser when I turn it. A complicating factor is that I have to accelerate the laser to max speed before I start exposing the PCB - this to ensure I do not overexpose the board on the edges.

 

post-45966-0-77340500-1440882226_thumb.jpg

 

post-45966-0-52042300-1440882235_thumb.jpg

 

post-45966-0-55188300-1440882243_thumb.jpg

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@@terjeio very nice, I like the pcb printer very much it's so ....cute.

I would like to replicate it. Those actuators are not cheap though.

Thanks for showing it off!

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Revisiting a project I intended to complete last fall for my coworker... a "reptile cage monitor" for one of his reptiles that is particularly cold sensitive (a "bearded dragon").  It will periodically sample the MSP430G2533's internal temperature and send it out via SI24R1 (nRF24L01+ compatible) radio to a base station I will configure for him eventually, but also a threshold temperature is configured at which point the buzzer will go off.

 

Not sure if the buzzer is loud enough for them to hear it from their bedroom, but this is a POC (proof of concept) anyhow.  We could always have the "base station" send him or his wife a text message as an alternate contact.

 

Using straight C with my mspuartcli and msprf24 libraries, but Tag-Connect is the really awesome piece of this IMO.  MSP-FET programming and reading the serial port's debugging messages via holding the tag-connect connector up against the footprint on the PCB.  Such an elegant way to add the FET & UART interface to a tiny board.

 

post-15991-0-67315900-1440906170_thumb.jpg

 

One thing I want to visit with this is the concept of sending a packet, then sitting in RX mode for a short interval so we can "talk back" to the device from the base station but without holding the RF transceiver spun up and drinking power all the time.

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@@terjeio very nice build,cute pretty much says it all :)

 

What are the specs of the laser? And at what speed does it move while "printing"?

 

The laser is a 100mW blu-ray diode, speed is a bit above 200 mm/s. The board in my post above is 3813 by 3109 pixels so it takes a little while to render it.

 

@@timotet the actuator I used is a second hand one and badly worn - but perfectly good for the printer, I bought it from Korea (ebay). It should be fairly easy to adapt the design to employ a cheaper ballscrew or a belt and pulley drive.

 

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Assembling and testing my custom EasyDriver-MSP430 board. The MSP430G2452 is powered by the 3.3V output of the EasyDriver, so only one power supply is needed. Push button to start/stop/reverse the motor.

Despite my poor PCB designing skills it works good so far :) Initially I planned to turn the EasyDriver board upside down to get a smaller package (large cap facing towards MSP430 board), but the A3967 IC is getting really warm/hot, so I did it this way just to be on the safe side...

 

post-31435-0-07428600-1441007506_thumb.jpg
 

 

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Assembling and testing my custom EasyDriver-MSP430 board. The MSP430G2452 is powered by the 3.3V output of the EasyDriver, so only one power supply is needed. Push button to start/stop/reverse the motor.

Despite my poor PCB designing skills it works good so far :) Initially I planned to turn the EasyDriver board upside down to get a smaller package (large cap facing towards MSP430 board), but the A3967 IC is getting really warm/hot, so I did it this way just to be on the safe side...

 

 

Hi @@yosh, this is great. What is the notch is the top left for?

 

Also.. a project page would be awesome, either in the projects section or your own blog :)

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Hi @@yosh, this is great. What is the notch is the top left for?

 

Hi @@bluehash

This notch isn't really necessary but I thought it could provide an easy access to the motor cable pins (see image). If I use the EasyDriver board with screw terminals, I have easy access to the screws. If I use an EasyDriver board with pins, there is enough space to connect stepper motors with standard female dupont connectors. In the prototyping stage I found this a convenient way as I want to test different stepper motors.

 

 

post-31435-0-16361200-1441024858_thumb.jpg

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