cubeberg

[S]IV-18 VFD Clock Booster Pack

244 posts in this topic

Got mine up and running today, it looks so cool! :grin:


Unfortunately one digit seems to be dead, i'm quite sure that it is a faulty tube and not the driver.
I can source a tube locally (well, ebay, but german seller) for 10EUR, but I really don't want to desolder the faulty tube from the adaptor PCB, this would propably be a pain in the ass and it would render the remaining 7 1/2 digits of the cube almost useless for future experiments.

Do you have spare adaptor PCBs, cube? If I decide to replace the tube, could I send you some money for a PCB and shipping?

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Got mine up and running today, it looks so cool! :grin:

 

Unfortunately one digit seems to be dead, i'm quite sure that it is a faulty tube and not the driver.

I can source a tube locally (well, ebay, but german seller) for 10EUR, but I really don't want to desolder the faulty tube from the adaptor PCB, this would propably be a pain in the ass and it would render the remaining 7 1/2 digits of the cube almost useless for future experiments.

Do you have spare adaptor PCBs, cube? If I decide to replace the tube, could I send you some money for a PCB and shipping?

The drills for the holes are so small, even if you could desolder it's unlikely that you'd be able to get a tube back into the holes.

Did you do a connectivity check from the VFD driver to the tube socket?  It could be a bad joint on one of the pins.

 

I do have several of the PCBs left, but they're green unfortunately.  I'm pretty sure we got an extra of the blue adapters - bluehash should be able to help you out.  

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The drills for the holes are so small, even if you could desolder it's unlikely that you'd be able to get a tube back into the holes.

Did you do a connectivity check from the VFD driver to the tube socket?  It could be a bad joint on one of the pins.

 

I do have several of the PCBs left, but they're green unfortunately.  I'm pretty sure we got an extra of the blue adapters - bluehash should be able to help you out.  

 

Got mine up and running today, it looks so cool! :grin:

 

Unfortunately one digit seems to be dead, i'm quite sure that it is a faulty tube and not the driver.

I can source a tube locally (well, ebay, but german seller) for 10EUR, but I really don't want to desolder the faulty tube from the adaptor PCB, this would propably be a pain in the ass and it would render the remaining 7 1/2 digits of the cube almost useless for future experiments.

Do you have spare adaptor PCBs, cube? If I decide to replace the tube, could I send you some money for a PCB and shipping?

I can spare you a carrier PCB. PM me.

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Checked for continuity, but didn't try to power the faulty segment independent from the driver.
I'll investigate this further tomorrow, but I thank you and bluehash in advance in case I need the pcb.

You might not have had a good start with your kit, some components like the inductor or the pushbuttons were wrong.
But the extent of support that you and especially bluehash are providing is just extraordinary. One always gets a kind answer, often (or usually) with just the right solution.

 

Thanks ;-)

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Checked for continuity, but didn't try to power the faulty segment independent from the driver.

I'll investigate this further tomorrow, but I thank you and bluehash in advance in case I need the pcb.

 

You might not have had a good start with your kit, some components like the inductor or the pushbuttons were wrong.

But the extent of support that you and especially bluehash are providing is just extraordinary. One always gets a kind answer, often (or usually) with just the right solution.

 

Thanks ;-)

Glad to help Philipp!   :smile:

 

 

 

Weird: I plugged everything together and pushed the code to the uC (to show my kids) and I got a "slow-motion" clock. That is, it actually went to the clock display after a while, but the seconds display only incremented every 8-10 seconds. Power down and back up; stuck in "Startup" again.

 

Weird.

Doc - I've got a new commit to Git that you're going to want to grab!  Remove the comment on "#define NOXTAL" and the clock will run without the crystal.  I'm not sure how accurate it will be, but it'll  get you running without a crystal.

 

Also - I'm using Grace to help with configuration (I do it in a separate project - just being lazy) - I noticed it dumped out some code to settle the crystal.  I'll try to integrate that later - maybe it'll help.

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Thanks Cube! I'll try it tonight.

 

Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk 2

 

EDIT: Got it going just fine without the crystal.  I'll let you know how accurate it is when I get around to syncing it up with something.  THANKS! as usual, Cubeberg!

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Thanks Cube! I'll try it tonight.

 

Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk 2

 

EDIT: Got it going just fine without the crystal.  I'll let you know how accurate it is when I get around to syncing it up with something.  THANKS! as usual, Cubeberg!

Fantastic news!  It donned on me the other day that I could probably get close without the crystal with some coding changes.  Glad it's more than just a paperweight now :)

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SUCCESS!  I soldered a small "can" type crystal (another one on paper next to clock in pic below) to my LaunchPad, reflashed with the NOXTAL commented out, and it works great!

 

post-18-0-60217800-1355276664_thumb.jpg

 

I have it mounted on top of a nice 4x AA battery box with on/off switch from my parts collection (I jumpered one battery position).  Provides a nice, weighty base.  We'll see how long three AAs will run this baby.

 

I'm going to start on my other kit and have one on my desk at home and one at work.  I work in a shop full of geeks (programmers), so it should be well appreciated.

 

Thanks again for the awesome kit, Cubeberg!

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SUCCESS!  I soldered a small "can" type crystal (another one on paper next to clock in pic below) to my LaunchPad, reflashed with the NOXTAL commented out, and it works great!

 

attachicon.gif2012-12-11 19.31.31.jpg

 

I have it mounted on top of a nice 4x AA battery box with on/off switch from my parts collection (I jumpered one battery position).  Provides a nice, weighty base.  We'll see how long three AAs will run this baby.

 

I'm going to start on my other kit and have one on my desk at home and one at work.  I work in a shop full of geeks (programmers), so it should be well appreciated.

 

Thanks again for the awesome kit, Cubeberg!

Awesome!  

 

I'm not sure how long the battery will work - the boost circuit is pretty power hungry.  I'd be interested to hear how long it runs though!

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I'll just leave this one going without setting the time That should pretty much work as a timer

EDIT: I'm guessing at about 6-7hrs on new AAs (bright setting). I woke in the night, and the display was dim, randomish characters.  I'll run it off a wall adapter.  Maybe put a big cap in there to allow quick moves of the cable/plug.

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Hi all

 

I already have a couple of this nice tubes.

 

Sorry for my ignorance, I readed most of this thread, but I didn't see what I'm looking for: how can I have (order/purchase) a PCB ?

 

 

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Hi all

 

I already have a couple of this nice tubes.

 

Sorry for my ignorance, I readed most of this thread, but I didn't see what I'm looking for: how can I have (order/purchase) a PCB ?

You can find the boards here: http://store.43oh.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=101

 

There's a link to the BOM in the store details.  Some of the parts are only available at places like Mouser or Digikey - you could get the rest of the components there as well - they're just standard resistors/components.

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The boards are available in the 43oh store (under booster packs).

 

Sent from my Galaxy Note 2 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

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I finally got my tube up. It was a bad boost chip after the initial testing. It looks beautiful!

 

 

A few issues on mine:

1. I don't see any dots. I checked the solder points on the tube, they all look good. Do you know which pin controls the dots? Maybe I'll wet it again.

2. When I click the Mode button, it goes blank. I've soldered my buttons at an offset(see pic)

 

Edit: - Buttons work, but no dots

 

WP_002716.jpg

WP_002717.jpg

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I finally got my tube up. It was a bad boost chip after the initial testing. It looks beautiful!

 

A few issues on mine:

1. I don't see any dots. I checked the solder points on the tube, they all look good. Do you know which pin controls the dots? Maybe I'll wet it again.

Hi, it is the pin #2. looking from the "bottom" of the tube (e.g. the wire side) and with the digits side on the left, is the pin on the right side just under the #1 that is one of the filament pins (the other is the #13 on the opposite side). See this datasheet: http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/dat_arch/IV-18.pdf

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Hi, it is the pin #2. looking from the "bottom" of the tube (e.g. the wire side) and with the digits side on the left, is the pin on the right side just under the #1 that is one of the filament pins (the other is the #13 on the opposite side). See this datasheet: http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/dat_arch/IV-18.pdf

Thanks amaze1

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I finally got my tube up. It was a bad boost chip after the initial testing. It looks beautiful!

 

 

A few issues on mine:

1. I don't see any dots. I checked the solder points on the tube, they all look good. Do you know which pin controls the dots? Maybe I'll wet it again.

2. When I click the Mode button, it goes blank. I've soldered my buttons at an offset(see pic)

 

Edit: - Buttons work, but no dots

 

attachicon.gifWP_002716.jpg

attachicon.gifWP_002717.jpg

Bluehash - looks like it's OUT16 on the VFD chip - pin 6.

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Thanks Cube.. looks like that pin is shit. I resoldered everything, but the dots won't display. Anyway, it works great without the dots, so np. This board has been through alot.

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Thanks Cube.. looks like that pin is shit. I resoldered everything, but the dots won't display. Anyway, it works great without the dots, so np. This board has been through alot.

Yeah - it definitely happens.  I had one where a couple of digits stopped working after banging it around quite a bit (it was the tube I used for the original prototype).  I couldn't see anything visibly wrong in the tube, not sure what exactly ended up being damaged.

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Yeah - it definitely happens.  I had one where a couple of digits stopped working after banging it around quite a bit (it was the tube I used for the original prototype).  I couldn't see anything visibly wrong in the tube, not sure what exactly ended up being damaged.

I re-read my comment.. I meant "shot", not "shit"... Hehehe

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Has anyone tested their temperature sensor?  I'm wondering what kind of temperatures people are seeing.  My board with the 1.0 design seems to run high (~80 degrees F), possibly affected by the cheap inductor?  My 1.1 board with the new inductor seems to be more accurate - between 72 and 75 most of the time in my living room.  I'll eventually have to run a sensor off the board and see how it compares.  

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Hi everybody !

Can anyone tell me for what MCU version git code is  ? I have an Launchpad with MSP430G2231 and i got a lot of errors when I try to compile the code.

 

Thanks.

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